Making a side trailer for a bicycle. One-wheel bicycle trailer - DIY bicycle trailer

Hello dear friends! When it comes to a bicycle trailer, people may interpret the meaning of this phrase differently. In one case we're talking about about simple car trailers into which you can load one or more bikes and transport them from point A to point B. A rational solution. Especially if you make an appropriate insert-mount for transporting bicycles.

You can find the corresponding drawings online and do them yourself. Moreover, a homemade and only slightly modified passenger car trailer for a car, that is, a cargo trailer, will not go beyond the scope of its certified design, and you will not have any problems with the traffic police or traffic police.

But today we are talking about something a little different. I want to talk about a trailer specifically for the bicycle itself, that is, it is a cart that is attached to a bicycle and is used as a small wheeled structure for cargo, some things, sometimes even for transporting children outdoors.

Design features of a bicycle trailer

If, in the case of transportation by car, it is not necessary to use a trailer for transporting bikes, since there are special, and or more common option , then in order to pull some kind of load behind the bicycle itself, you cannot do without a cart.

Bicycle trailers are used to transport heavy but compact loads. Weight largely depends on how much an adult will be able to handle. Therefore, such structures are subject to increased requirements in terms of strength and reliability. At the same time, the bicycle trailer should be maneuverable and light. And don’t forget about the possibility of quick repairs in case of breakdown. This makes such trailers structurally simple and understandable for anyone.

Bicycle trailers can be used for some things, for dogs, sometimes even for children for the purpose of entertainment or a quiet ride around the park. In this case, the structure must be stable and equipped with seat belts.


In some cities, you can even rent similar trailers. Moreover, the price is quite reasonable, and allows you to experience all the advantages of a bicycle trailer. I know for sure that such a service is available in Moscow and Ukraine. If you know of any other trailers, please leave a review.

Cargo bicycle trailers can be in the form of a solid or prefabricated structure, for which additional equipment is provided in the form of a cover, some kind of nets, seat belts, animal bars, etc. Movement is carried out relative to the axis of the bicycle itself. This makes it possible to create safe and reliable conditions for movement even on poor quality roads and with maximum load on the structure. The most commonly used method is lateral or bilateral fixation.

If we talk about load capacity, they are mainly designed for weights up to 50 kilograms. There are models from Thule and other well-known brands, where this parameter reaches 70 and 90 kilograms.


Varieties

Everything here is extremely simple. If you decide to buy a ready-made bicycle trailer, then be sure to take a look at its design features.

The division is based on the number of wheels used. As a result, the bicycle trailer can be:

  • Single wheel. The design is most widespread in the field of tourist bike travel. Single-wheeled models are the most maneuverable and compact, which allows you to drive with them even on the narrowest paths and difficult areas;
  • Two-wheeled. A more massive design, aimed at transporting heavy loads, animals, children, etc. At the same time, it is no less popular precisely due to its cargo capabilities. Maneuverability is not so ideal, but it all depends on your route and the amount of things you need to take with you.

That's the whole classification for you. Other principles for separating bicycle trailers are not yet used.


Key Design Elements

If you look at the photos and videos where various versions of bicycle trailers are assembled, you can see, despite different designs and some differences, certain similarities in all models.

Moreover, it is not fundamentally important whether the structure is made of plastic pipes without welding, or is assembled on the basis of a metal frame.

  • Frame. This is often a design that consists of mounting bias responses, as well as a straight axle required for the wheel. The frame is subject to increased demands in terms of strength and reliability. It is based on a steel or metal profile;
  • Platform. Its task is to withstand the impact load. Plywood, plastic or even MDF are used as manufacturing materials. When choosing platform material, consider the operating conditions. Not all of them can withstand exposure to moisture;
  • Fastening. The bicycle mounting system is considered the most important component of the entire trailer. It includes a drawbar, various fasteners, locks and clamps. The quality of fastening directly affects the functionality, maneuverability and safety of the cargo being transported.

There are various versions and modifications. For example, in the USA, models designed for transporting surfboards are common. In our country, universal models turned out to be more popular.


A little about DIY assembly

I cannot give you specific instructions for making such a trailer with your own hands, since there are a wide variety of drawings based on different materials.

I would like to note that there is nothing difficult in making a bicycle trailer, even if you have never done anything like this. Usually the box is made from MDF or plywood. It’s up to you to weld the drawbar yourself, order it from a craftsman or buy a ready-made product.

Titanium is ideal as a frame material due to its lightness and strength. But it is expensive, which is why aluminum is most often used. You can place a strong metal basket on the bottom, and if desired, cover the whole thing with MDF or plywood with a moisture-resistant coating.

The trailer and the bicycle itself are connected by a metal tube, and at the end of the latter there is a drawbar. By the way, about You can read the separate material, and then a lot will become clear.


Otherwise, I recommend sticking to simple rules when operating such wheeled products. It is important not to overload the bicycle trailer, learn to feel your own dimensions, and also choose a route in advance so that there are no problems with the maneuverability of the bicycle trailer.

You can make a simple bicycle trailer with your own hands from wood, plastic pipes or metal. In the first two cases, it is easy to do without welding, and the metal model is suitable for a one-wheel bicycle trailer.

How to make a bicycle trailer out of wood

A wooden trailer is best suited for children's bicycles. It does not withstand heavy loads, but 20 kg is enough for transporting small loads.

Materials required for manufacturing

  1. Two wheels (10 inches),
  2. Plywood panel (4x4ft),
  3. Thin board and plastic,
  4. 2x4 boards (8 feet long),
  5. Glue,
  6. Putty,
  7. Paint in several colors
  8. Square steel pipe,
  9. PVC pipe,
  10. Fastening tools,
  11. Drill,
  12. A circular saw
  13. Screwdriver,
  14. Other working tools and small accessories.

Manufacturing instructions

Side panels and floor

The side panels of the bicycle trailer and the bottom are cut from sheets of plywood. The walls should have a semicircular shape. The floor panel is 15 inches wide and the same length as the side panels (31 inches).

After cutting, all three parts are fastened with screws - the holes in them are drilled in advance, with a drill of a smaller diameter. The surface of the trailer base is primed with white paint.

Strengthening the Foundation

The mount will bear most of the load. If you assemble the “skeleton” correctly, the trailer will not be deformed. To secure the trailer, two long pieces of board (14 inches) are placed on the front panel, top and bottom. The same board is attached to the bottom on the opposite side. Two long boards on the sides complete the “skeleton”.

The boards are secured with three screws to the floor and side panel.

Roof

The trailer roof must be made of flexible material. Thin board, plastic panel, and (ideally) a large poster frame will do. The length of the roof panel is 14.75 x 36 inches. You need to cut it out with a sharp knife. After this, primer paint is applied to the panel and the roof is attached to the trailer. The corners of the frame are painted in the desired color. They are attached to the roof using self-tapping screws. Space each one 6-8 inches apart.



Wheels and axle

A mark is made on the bottom of the trailer: where the axle will be placed. Cut two 15-inch lengths of plywood. One is divided in half (about 2.5 inches wide). The smaller pieces are attached to the bottom of the trailer using screws on both sides of the axle. A piece of greater width is attached to the top. A piece of PVC pipe will be used as pads between the wheel bearings and the body. The wheels are held on the axle using clamps.


Door and other elements

A hole for the door is cut in the trailer roof. Leave 2-inch holes on the sides. From the remaining piece you need to make a front bumper. It is held on the roof with glue. While the glue dries, it is strengthened with adhesive tape. When the bumper is dry, a coat of paint is applied to it.

The door is made of a piece of plastic. The panel is cut to the required length and width and attached to the roof with screws. After this, the door is painted with the same paint as the trailer.

Additional decor

You can further decorate the trailer: paint the bottom part with the same paint as the corners and bumper. This is easy to do using strips of duct tape. The trailer door will be closed using a latch strap. On one side it is held in place by a screw, on the other there is a hook that is attached to the screw.

For safety, a strip of reflective material is attached to the trailer.

You can also add lighting. A 7 amp battery, a wire with a fuse, and all wires are located under the door of the trailer.

Fastening

For a trailer to be a trailer - follow vehicle— a piece of steel pipe is mounted to it (attached with self-tapping screws to the brackets). A spring axle is attached to the pipe.


The trailer is ready to go on a long journey with your bike.


How to make a bicycle trailer from plastic pipes

The advantage of a bicycle trailer made from PVC pipes is that it is more durable than the chipboard version. Also, plastic pipes are not afraid of rain and high humidity in the garage.


Prototype

The disadvantages include the comparative high cost of materials, the need for a soldering iron for soldering plastic pipes and the ability to use this tool.


At your nearest bike shop you need to buy:

  1. Two 20 inch wheels
  2. Mounting under the seat.

We weld the frame using a soldering iron for PVC pipes, you can rent one. We use pieces from a mesh fence as the bottom, having previously painted them white.


We will make the wheel mounts from galvanized metal and attach them with screws and nuts.


DIY one-wheel bicycle trailer

A trailer with one wheel is more maneuverable, but in turn requires a more durable structure. You can’t make such a “stroller” without welding yourself.


The prototype was the BOB Ibex trailer, which has a very good design, in particular a patented fastening method, but the price is not very low, so it was decided to make the cart with your own hands.

Parts and materials

Let's start assembling a homemade bicycle trailer by finding the main components. And based on the details found, we will then develop a plan for further action.


Wheels

At first I thought about installing a 20″ BMX wheel, but ended up using 16″ wheels, just like the original BOB trailers. I had several old children's bicycles with 16-inch wheels, but I still decided to buy a new wheel.

Shock absorber

I purchased a mechanical rear bicycle shock absorber on ebay for $13 (including shipping). An air shock absorber is much better, but it is significantly more expensive. I bought 1/2″ bolts and nylon spacers from a local hardware store.


Swivel bracket and rear triangle

As a swivel bracket for rear wheel I used an old BMX fork. The hinge was a steel bicycle hub, which I purchased inexpensively at a local bike shop. Another fork was needed to construct the vertical part of the rear triangle.


Frame

The frame is made of 1/2 inch thin wall metal tube for wires. Each 10-inch tube cost $2.00. I needed four tubes. Before welding, be sure to sand the galvanized coating using a flap wheel.


Other components

I used steel plates (1/4″ and 1/8″), angles and channel that were left over from previous projects. The old knitting needles acted as locking pins. In addition, we need a thin-walled metal tube one inch thick.

BOB quick release axle

It forms the basis of BOB's patented trailer mounting method. Perhaps the mount could be made independently, but it is still better to purchase a ready-made mount, since there should definitely not be any problems with it. I ordered a quick release axle from Amazon for $26.00. Another version of the quick release axle is also available for bicycles with a solid rear axle.


Tools

The main tools that we will need to assemble a homemade bicycle trailer:

  • 4-inch angle grinder with cutting, grinding and flap wheels;
  • Round and flat metal files;
  • Pipe cutter for cutting thin-walled metal tube for wires (a grinding disc was also used);
  • Bending machine for thin-walled metal tube for wires (I only had one for 3/4″, but it worked for 1/2″);
  • Drilling machine and hand drill;
  • Bench sander and disc-shaped wire brush;
  • Wire feeder or inert gas welding machine;
  • Openwork saw with blades for cutting metal;
  • Marking tools, cutters, punches;

Swivel bracket and rear triangle designs

Since the BMX fork is designed for 20″ wheels, and I used a 16″ wheel, there were a few extra inches left that could be used for my own purpose – attaching a shock absorber.


I welded a piece of channel to the top of the fork (you can also use a corner), to which in turn I attached a shock absorber. I cut the mounts for the shock absorber measuring 1.5″ x 1.5″ (or 1.25″ x 1.25″) from two steel angles.


I cut two more shock mounts for the top and mocked up the rear triangle. Second bicycle fork served as vertical supports for the rear triangle. I used a steel bushing as a fulcrum in the fork for the swing arm. Using a steel angle, I marked the required length of the vertical fork after cutting. Also, a steel angle was needed to attach the shock absorber mount to the vertical fork supports.

We cut the fork stem and attach the rounded groove to the steel bushing. Since the diameter of the fork exceeded the diameter of the bushing, you will have to work a little with a hammer on the fork rod to adjust the size of the groove to the size of the bushing.


Weld the channel to the fork swivel bracket, and solder the lower part of the mount to the channel.

Weld the steel bushing to the fork tube swivel bracket. First you need to remove the axle and bearings.

Weld the steel angle to upper parts cut off fork legs. Weld the top of the shock absorber mount to the corner. Then sand the edges.

Finally, bolt the steel hub axle to the fork legs. Attach the shock absorber using a 1/2″ bolt and nylon spacers to the top and bottom of the mount.

Trailer fork dropouts

If we follow BOB terminology, the part of the trailer that attaches to the rear axle of the bicycle should be called the fork. To begin this part of the project, I had to wait for the cam mount axle to arrive from Amazon. The dropout's contact with the BOB's special eccentric mounting system allows the trailer to pivot up and down around the bike's rear axle. You need to install the axle on the bike, check the clearances, and measure the diameter and width of the dropouts.

We begin production with a sketch of the dropout made from a photo from the Internet. Using the measurements mentioned above, I made a paper template. To cut the two dropouts, we use a 1/4-inch thick steel plate at hand. To cut out dropouts you will need an old round plate with a large hole in the middle. It should be approximately the same size as the template.

Using a metal-cutting saw, cut a large piece off the plate and then drill a 9/16-inch diameter dropout hole. If the plate is thicker than the eccentric mount socket, you will have to grind it down a little at the connection point so that it can fit into the socket.

We then drill two small holes in the plates so that they can be secured together with small screws. Then we polish them again so that they match each other as much as possible. One of the holes will be used to hold the locking pin in place with a large welded scrap of steel nail.


A locking pin made from a stainless steel spoke prevents the dropout from popping out of the eccentric mount. See the sketch and photograph for how to drill small holes through the dropout legs. The spoke is inserted into the holes, bent at an acute angle, and then passed behind the bolt and brought above.

Trailer fork

The fork allows the trailer to move laterally.

This hinge tube was made using 10" long, one inch thin wall metal tubing and 5/16" x 1 1/4" washers welded on top and bottom.

The washers are held together by 5/16" rod with nuts that act as the support point for the structure. The washers need to be welded to the tube and ground. A cap nut was used on one side of the rod. Before welding, be sure to sand the galvanized coating of the pipe using a flap wheel.

The trailer fork frame is made from thin-walled 1/2″ metal tubing that was bent using a bending machine. Before welding the frame to the dropouts, it was sanded using a 4-inch sanding wheel. The two lower frame tubes were first welded to the dropouts and then to the pivot tube. The two upper pipes were welded similarly. To make the trailer easier to rotate, nylon spacers were placed on top and bottom of the pivot tube.

Trailer frame

The trailer frame was made from 1/2 inch thin wall metal tubing.

The manufacture of the frame begins with two sections of the upper and lower parts of the frame. Since it is quite difficult to create an even semicircle of large radius in the front part of the trailer, like with BOB trailers, you can limit yourself to a small bend radius and short straight jumpers between the upper and lower parts of the frame. At this stage, we do not pay attention to the total length of the pipes - the main thing is that the upper and lower parts of the frame exactly match each other.

We start assembling the frame with a sketch. Using it, we make mock-ups, based on which we will assemble the frame in metal.

We cut the support plates from 1/8-inch steel and weld them from the front to the top and bottom of the frame at an angle, as in the model. The support plates were attached to the top and bottom of the pivot tube, thus defining the location of the bottom and top front of the frame frame.

Then on each side I welded vertical posts between the lower and upper pipes.

Tubular frame for bicycle trailer frame

To determine the desired length of the frame, you will have to make a layout again. We welded the top transverse part, cut the side rails to the required length and welded the vertical posts at the back.

Diagonal partitions on each side are necessary to enhance the rigidity of the frame. You can also take large steel nails, cut them and weld them into the holes at the bottom of the diagonal partitions so that they act as a spring shock absorber at the joints.

Bottom of frame

The bottom of the frame is made of a special metal mesh, which can be purchased at a hardware store. Unless it will be difficult to find a sheet large enough so that one sheet can completely cover the bottom of the frame. You can use an old garden cart. We cut out the metal mesh from the cart and clean it from rust in several places.

Before deciding on the final size of the metal mesh, we weld the vertical part of the rear triangle to the back of the frame. Then we cut the metal mesh around the fork supports and weld the metal mesh to the bottom of the frame. Next you need to sand all the sharp and rough edges of the mesh.

Painting a homemade trailer

Now everything is ready. You can start painting our homemade bicycle trailer.


After painting

Finally, the homemade trailer is painted and looks pretty good. We recommend using Rustoleum Hammered Bronze paint, which gives the metal a forged effect, improving appearance welds. But, if you paint at temperatures above 30 °C, then this effect will not appear in any way.

However, the homemade bicycle trailer has acquired a beautiful metallic bronze color. The final weight of the homemade bicycle trailer was 10 kg. The last thing you need to do is make a strap for the locking pins so they don't get lost during travel.

Finishing touches

Safety mount for locking pins

You need to make narrow strips from bicycle inner tubes. We pierce one end with a locking pin, and the other with a bolt, which we then secure into the hole next to the fork dropout.


This ensures the locking pin won't get lost if it pops out and is always handy when hooking up the trailer.

Top tube padding

We use foam padding around the perimeter of the top tube (two 6-inch pieces, each costing $0.97). To secure the foam you will need several plastic clamps. The padding protects the paint from large items that may poke out of the basket, and also reduces slip resistance when large items are strapped to the top tube.

– the distinguishing thing is that it significantly expands the capabilities of the bicycle in terms of cargo transportation. The simplest trailer, the design of which is described in this manual, is equipped with a platform on which you can transport various items, from personal belongings to sand, bricks, and so on. As for the sides, you can also make them, but this is at your discretion.

The bicycle discussed below is made from almost waste materials. The frame was made from parts from an old golf cart (or something similar). The platform is made of such a common material as wood. Of course, wood adds weight to the trailer, but it is the most affordable material.

Materials and tools that the author used for homemade work:

List of materials:
- an old stroller (or other similar spare parts);
- bicycle wheels (if they were not on the selected stroller);
- wooden boards;
- self-tapping screws;
- steel pipe clamps;
- screws, bolts, washers, nuts;
- two wheels from trolleys (for making a fastening device);
- old cable from bicycle brakes(or similar);
- two reflectors (installed on the trailer);
- steel fastening loops.


List of tools:
- ;
- Bicycle Pump;
- pliers and wire cutters;
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- wood hacksaw;
- ruler, marker or pencil;
- a hacksaw or grinder (may be needed).

Trailer manufacturing process:

Step one. Preparing materials
The first thing you need to get are bicycle wheels. Finding them in good condition can sometimes be problematic. You will also need metal tubes for the frame; you can get them from old strollers, bicycles, and so on. By the way, previously excellent aluminum tubes were used in cornices.

Also prepare the boards; they should be strong, but as thin and light as possible so that the trailer is not difficult to pull with a bicycle.




The author disassembles the stroller using. We remove everything that is not necessary.

Step two. Let's start assembling the frame
After disassembling the stroller, the author still had axles with wheels, as well as an element in the shape of the letter “P”. These components needed to be connected. You can’t weld aluminum, you can only drill or do as the author does. We simply take steel pipe clamps and tightly tighten the elements together. For reliability, you can install more clamps. To strengthen the structure, the author drilled holes in the pipes and secured them with additional bolts and nuts. The parts are now securely connected.










Step three. Central supports
It will be necessary to make supports in the center of the frame so that the platform does not sag under load. Here you will need tubes that need to be secured. On one side, the author had already secured them, and on the other, he inserted a threaded rod across the entire frame and secured the tubes with nuts and washers.






Step four. Trailer drawbar
To connect the trailer to the bicycle you will need a piece of square steel pipe or other similar part. Cut it to the required length and attach it to the trailer frame. How to do this, choose for yourself convenient way. The author used a steel clamp with nuts, as well as metal loops for these purposes. However, you can drill holes in the pipe and fasten the drawbar with bolts and nuts. Additionally, the structure can be strengthened with the same clamps. The most important thing is that the tongue does not come off the trailer when loaded.








Step five. Connecting a trailer to a bicycle
Due to the fact that the trailer must move up or down when driving on uneven roads, it cannot be attached rigidly to the bicycle. The trailer must also be able to turn. In this regard, the hinge must have at least 2 degrees of freedom, that is, movement must be available in the horizontal and vertical directions.













To solve this problem, the author purchased two wheels from a cart. Each wheel can move around its axis at an angle of 360 degrees. Simply remove the wheels from them, and then connect both structures using a bolt and nut. Instead of a bolt and nut, the author uses a special rod. This knot is important because it will allow you to quickly unhook the trailer from the bike if necessary.

Attach one part to the bicycle frame, the author attaches it to the rear fork near the axle, there are two suitable holes there. Secure the second part to the trailer drawbar; the author securely tightened it with loops with bolts and nuts. Select the correct mounting angle so that the trailer can change the angle within the specified range. That's all, we got an excellent unit for attaching a trailer to a bicycle.

Step six. Insurance
Just in case, you need to make insurance that will hold the trailer if the main fastening unit suddenly becomes detached. For these purposes, the author used a bicycle braking system. Remove the part that contains the brake pads from one end. Make a secure loop at the end of the cable. As for the brake lever, you can leave it.
















Attach the brake handle to the trailer frame and route the cable inside the drawbar. As a result, the end of the cable with a loop should come out near the rear fork of the bicycle. Attach it to the frame in any way possible. Now, if the main tie-down unit fails, your trailer will be held in place by a cable until it comes to an emergency stop.

Step seven. Manufacturing and fastening of a wooden platform
We prepare the boards, cut them depending on the size of the trailer and sand them so that the platform is easy to clean and does not tear the packages if you transport them. It is also highly recommended to paint the wood so that it does not absorb moisture.













Well, then we use self-tapping screws and assemble the platform. It is attached to the frame using bolts and nuts, using special metal fasteners for pipes.

Terms. A bicycle trailer is an indispensable thing at the dacha for transporting goods. of varying severity. For example, it is very convenient to use such a trailer for transporting water flasks.

Necessary materials and tools for manufacturing:
- hammer
- chisel
- Adjustable wrench
- pliers
- crosshead screwdriver
- roulette
- boards
- metal corners
- wire
- bolts of different sizes and diameters
- rope
- bridge
- wheels

Detailed description on production:

Step 1: First, let's assemble the cart frame. There is no need to tighten the bolts during assembly; we simply strengthen the structure with wire. To do this, secure the wire with nuts diagonally.


Step 2: After assembling the structure, we screw the bridge to the wooden base. For fastening we use nuts, bolts, and nylon inserts.




Step 3: Next we will make the central support axis. This will require a wider board. To prevent the boards from interfering with the movement of the bridge, small recesses must be made at the ends of the boards and secured with four screws.



Step 4: To assemble the mounts for the trolley, we cut the corners into their component parts. Remember their length in the future will depend on the height of the trailer itself. The two parts of the square do not need to be cut to the end as they need to be bent at an angle and secured with brackets as shown in the photo.



Step 5: Next you need to make a coupling for fastening. To do this, we cut two pieces of square and attach them to the structure.



Step 6: We attach wheels to the cart.



Step 7: Then we will make a grid on the frame of the cart; if you wish, you can simply lay boards. It all depends on the load.

At the beginning of the spring season, when the sun begins to shine and people are drawn to vacation, I decided to build a bicycle trailer with my own hands - my own trailer for a bicycle. I read many trailer comparisons to find the best solution to suit my needs.
I intend to do at least a 3-day trip along the river in the summer with my friends, and lugging backpacks isn't very practical. The idea of ​​a bicycle trailer in which you can easily transport tents, a mattress and any cargo you want came to me.

Step 1. 1 or 2 wheels?

I've read a lot of threads on forums about the issue...
Since the road would be one track for many kilometers, a one-wheel trailer seemed like the best solution.
I discovered two major bike trailer designers:
- Bob (http://www.bobgear.com/)
- Aevon (http://www.aevon-trailers.com/)
These designers use different mounting solutions. Bob's trailers use the rear axle as the trailer's anchor point, while Aevon's use a frame tube under the seat.
I decided to make the trailer as similar as possible to the Aevon trailer.

Step 2. Selection of materials

I bought:
- 8 meters of 1 cm square steel pipe (less than 1 kg per meter)
- 2 meters 2.2 cm square steel pipe
- 0.5L shiny black paint
Made from recycled materials:
- 2 frames from “heavy” bicycles
- 16" wheels
- 1 front fork from 16" bike with fender
- 2 meters of used round pipes
- Steel scraps

Total cost: 30 €

Step 3: Center Axle Section

I welded this frame from 2.2 cm square pipes. This frame is designed to secure the trailer to its bottom and is also used as a trailer hitch to secure the trailer to the rear of the bicycle. It was divided into 4 parts:

Bottom 78 cm
- Front 44 cm
- The first part of the tow bar is 35 cm
- The second part of the tow bar is 42 cm

Step 4: Hitch

This stage is the most difficult. In fact, the device must be strong enough to withstand the force of 12 kilograms of luggage in rough road conditions. None of the options offered on the Internet suited me due to the insufficient stability of the bicycle trailer. Therefore, the final decision, which I made on my own, is as follows: a jumper is formed from 2 x 4 cm round pipes welded perpendicularly. The vertical part of the axle is on the bike side and the horizontal part of the axle is on the trailer side.

On a bicycle, a structure is welded from plates in order to secure the vertical axis. This part is attached to the seat tube using 2 U-shaped bolts. In order for this design to fit more tightly to the seat tube, special recesses are made on it that tightly cover the seat tube.
On the trailer side, two drilled iron plates were welded onto the tow bar extension to create a horizontal axle.

Step 5. Detachable towbar

To make it easy to store the trailer, the tow bar extension must be removable. It was cut 10 cm from the trailer. The connection between the 2 parts of the towbar extension is made using a larger square pipe, placed on the cut parts of the towbar. The screw interlocks the parts of the towbar and the outer square pipe.

Step 6: Trailer Basket

2 frames were built from 1cm square steel tube:

76 cm x 40 cm bottom frame
- 112 cm x 40 cm top frame
Both frames are connected:
- 2 x 40 cm crossbars on the front side of the trailer
- 2 x 25 cm crossbars on the rear side of the trailer
As a result, the basket was welded to a 2 cm square pipe of the trailer's central axle.
At the bottom of the basket, 2 sections of 38 cm were welded in order to consolidate the trailer.
On both sides, 2 round pipes were welded on the trailer to prevent the bags from falling out of the trailer.
Once all the parts were welded, I cleaned everything up and painted it shiny black.

Step 7: Testing

I tested this self-made bicycle trailer on a short run of about 50 km. I loaded the tent and sleeping bag into the trailer along with my backpack and drove along the dusty paths. The bicycle trailer was well behaved, following the bicycle in its tracks while turning. I didn't feel the strain and it was very easy to tow. I'll buy a large waterproof bag to put in it. The next step is to use the bike trailer for what it was designed for: an autonomous journey of several days...

On the topic of homemade bicycle equipment -. For those who love creativity, create a bicycle with your own hands.