A climbing safety system is a piece of equipment that a climber puts on and to which a rope is attached using a carabiner or. The safety system is designed to distribute the force during a rope jerk due to a fall and prevent injury to the climber. Personal safety systems used in mountaineering must meet the requirements of the UIAA.
In mountaineering, however, as in rock climbing or mountain tourism, there are several types of safety systems - a chest harness or upper system, a gazebo or lower system, a combined or complete system.
The main components in the safety system are:
- Buckle.
- Ring.
- Loops or so-called balconies on the sides of the system.
What is self-insurance?
A self-belay is a device that is designed to belay and position a climber on difficult mountain terrain. The self-belay must withstand the greatest calculated jerk without damage or destruction and provide a load of no more than 12 kN on the person who has fallen off.
Self-belaying systems are manufactured industrially or tied with your own hands from dynamic certified rope.
The safety chain includes: the belayer, the belayer's self-belay, the belay station, the belay device, the belay system, intermediate belay points, carabiners and the rope connecting it all.
In the selection process, the main rule for forming an insurance chain is the use of equipment that is certified, tested and manufactured specifically for this task.
For this reason, it is strictly forbidden to use a static rope for a bottom belay and it is not recommended to use a mustache made from a tape for self-belaying. However, it should be remembered that even the use of certified equipment cannot give guarantees, since the use of erroneous techniques or using faulty equipment is no less dangerous.
Self-belay from the end of the ligament rope
A lanyard from the end of a ligament rope can be tied in just a few seconds and, at the same time, no additional equipment is needed:
- You need to choose how much rope you need.
- Next you should tie the stirrup.
- Now we insert the carabiner into it.
- Ready.
This method is suitable either for leaders who work on two ropes, or for twos. New UIAA certified dynamic ropes are capable of elongating forty percent or less during a 1.7 pull factor.
The safest self-insurances
They are made from a piece of dynamic rope. This type of self-belay requires about three or four meters of rope. One mustache must be made short and used for clamping. It should have the optimal length so that the jumar, which is fastened to the mustache with a carabiner, is located at face level. The second mustache needs to be made long, but it should not be longer than an outstretched arm. The latter is self-insurance.
To make the lanyard adjustable, you need to add a prusik to the base of the mustache. The catching knot must be tied on the lanyard and attached to the harness in the same way as the lanyard. To shorten, select the slack between the carabiner and the gripping unit.
Such insurance can absorb the energy of the jerk by tightening the knots, stretching the rope and etching in the gripping unit.
This type of insurance is not recommended for use by mountaineering camp participants.
Ready-made ligament lanyards
An equally safe option is ready-made ligament self-belays. It is desirable that the lanyard is attached to the harness not with a carabiner, but with a semi-grasping knot. In such a situation, the carabiner is an extra link in the safety system.
In the finished lanyard, stitching is used instead of knots. During a fall on such a belay, part of the energy is absorbed by the stretching of the rope. It is forbidden to shorten stitched lanyards from the box, however you can tie a knot as indicated above.
Parcel Prussian
The Parcel Prussian is the best option for lovers of cordalettes and everything Western in general. It is knitted from a piece of cord seven millimeters thick. If the cord complies with EN 564 standards, then it can withstand a minimum of 9.8 kN.
The length of this thing is quite easy to adjust. If it breaks, the rope will be etched by the gripping knot. In combination with stretching the cord, you get a less harsh jerk.
Sterling Chain Reactor, Metolius PAS and the like
The safest of the lanyards not made from rope. Each ring in such lanyards is a power ring. If the insurance is not damaged and is fastened to you with two carabiners, then it is capable of withstanding exactly as much tearing as indicated in the manufacturer’s passport.
A semi-grasping knot can weaken it by 30-60%. When jerking, slings absorb energy worse than rope. A nylon sling can absorb about five percent of the jerk energy, which is very little.
In addition, they can withstand the passport load only if they are fastened with carabiners.
It is advisable to use such a lanyard in combination with a lanyard from the end of the ligament rope.
Self-belays tied from slings
In principle, such insurance was invented for speleologists. For mountaineering, they are not very convenient - a long mustache is suitable for a jumar, and a short one for carrying a basket when descending.
If we talk about the absorption of jerk energy by a self-belay, then these types of belays will absorb worse than rope, but better than Dynama. Fasten it with two carabiners. In fact, there are practically no amenities for climbers, but there are disadvantages.
Tied from slings
Their advantage is that they are very light.
However, they also have several disadvantages:
- Sensitivity to abrasion compared to rope lanyards.
- No length adjustment.
- They absorb the energy of a jerk much worse than a rope.
Daisy chains of various types
Not a single type of Daisy chain is, in fact, a self-insurer - this is what the manufacturers think. The main purpose of Daisy chains is aid - this is a style of climbing in mountaineering, where the support points are artificial.
However, no one is interested in this - many climbers use them as self-belay because of their ease of use.
If you shorten the daisy chain incorrectly, which is not so difficult to do, it will break under a load of two or three hundred kilograms. If you have shortened it correctly but tied any kind of knot, it can lose between thirty and sixty percent of its strength.
For the reasons described above, it is not advisable to use daisy chains as lanyards.
Cliffs
Just like daisy chains, they are not self-belaying and are created specifically for aid. Their breaking load varies from 120 kg for Petzel to 300 kg for Metolius.
Daisy chains can still be used as self-insurance, but this will not work with cliffs, since the line on the buckle will break under the load.
Self-belays for ice tools
They are quite flimsy. Their main task is to prevent ice tools from falling down and breaking under a load of 200 kg. Elastic bands can only be used for ice tools and in no case should they be used for belaying or self-belaying.
Comparison of various types of self-insurances from the passport of Grivel rubber bands
- From the end of the main rope:
- Advantages: safety, easy adjustment, no need for additional equipment.
- Disadvantages - the scope is limited.
- From the main rope:
- Advantages: safety, easy adjustment.
- Disadvantages: bulky in size, inconvenient to remove.
- From the stitched main rope:
- Advantages: safety, easy to take off and put on, mostly more compact than a piece of rope.
- Disadvantages: Cannot be adjusted; mustache length must be chosen carefully.
- Parcel Prussian:
- Advantages: relative safety, easy adjustment, easy to put on and take off, excellent shock absorption.
- Disadvantages - bulky size, difficult to knit, only one mustache.
- PAS and others like it:
- Advantages - relative safety, simple adjustment, easy to put on and take off, does not get tangled underfoot.
- Disadvantages: poor absorption of jerk energy.
- From the sling:
- Advantages: lightweight, easy to take off and put on.
- Disadvantages: impossible to adjust, poor absorption of shock energy, less wear-resistant compared to rope.
- Daisy chain:
- Advantages: lightweight, easy to shorten, easy to take off and put on.
- Cliffs:
- Advantages: easy and convenient to shorten.
- Disadvantages - not self-insurance.
- Rubber bands for tools:
- Advantages: they shorten themselves and are lightweight.
- Disadvantages - not self-insurance.
Thus, the following conclusions can be drawn:
- You can safely use it - from the end of the main rope, sewn from rope, from a piece of rope.
- Use carefully - parsel prusiks, made from sewn rings.
- It is not recommended to use - clips, daisy chains, tied slings, elastic bands for tools.
In conclusion, I would like to say that belay, like no other part of mountaineering technique, requires regular and constant training and attention. Experienced climbers, who have been climbing together for many years and have an excellent command of climbing techniques, in practice may never experience the real need to act in the event of a failure of a climbing partner.
Therefore, it is necessary to know the procedure to follow during a breakdown. In addition, it is necessary to be able to reliably and correctly organize a belay station - to efficiently use the relief and microrelief to implement belay and self-belay techniques.
Good day to all!
I came across the following message:What is there to think about, the most important thing is to do everything wisely) Feel the instrument. There are various stupid regulations. Well, for example, working with a drill without gloves. nonsense, whoever came up with this has never worked with a drill. Well, or always tie yourself with a rope when working on the roof. Often customers were tormented by this nonsense. The most important thing is to always think with your head when doing something. Understand what could happen in the next minute.
And I decided to find out how forum users insure themselves when working on the roof. As a result, the majority do not insure themselves at all. And those who insure themselves do not tell us exactly how they do it. All recommendations boil down to the fact that buy a rope, a harness, a jumar and you will be happy. And figure out for yourself how to use all this goodness.I decided to jot down a short note on working with rope. If you think that insurance is a customer problem, then read this http://www.promalp.ru/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12400.
So, high-altitude work is calledwork during which the employee is at a distance of less than two meters from unfenced differences in height of 1.3 meters or more. So if you climbed to a height of more than 1.3 meters, then you are engaged in work at height, and they are an extremely dangerous activity that requires the use of insurance
A little about knots: to tie ropes, in most cases it is enough to know three knots: a figure eight, a bowline and a bayonet, but I will also tell you about the guide so that you can see its difference from the figure eight.
Conductor: Knitted with one rope, which is folded in half and tied at the end simple knot to make a loop. You can also tie it in the middle of the rope.This knot is very simple to perform - practically it is the simplest non-tightening loop. Can be knitted at one end. Under load it pulls tightly and crawls on a rigid rope. Used to attach a rope loop to something. To make untying easier after use, you can first insert an object into the weave of the knot. If there is a high probability of variable loads, it is recommended to knit control node.
Eight: Can be tied at one end, does not creep under load and does not require a control knot.The resulting knot has a characteristic pattern resembling a figure eight, so it is easy to remember. Used when using a carbine noose.
Bowline: "King of Knots" . It is distinguished by its simplicity, versatility of use and the absence of obvious disadvantages. The knot can be tied at one end or around the support. Bowline Easy to untie after applying load. Under variable loads, the knot creeps a lot, so the knitting control node required!Bayonet: Unlike the eight and bowline bayonet does not apply to non-tightening loops. However, the scope of application of these nodes is similar. It is used to secure ropes to supports and weights to ropes. An important feature of this knot is that it can be tied under load. After removing the load bayonet very easy to untie - it doesn't tighten at all!There can be any number of rope loops around the load end, but not less than two. Knitting a control knot is mandatory!
A climbing system or, in other words, a harness most often consists of two parts - upper and lower, which are connected using a mustache with a bowline knot. Thanks to this, there are two knots for self-belaying and fixing the rope. This technique originated during the early days of mountaineering in the Soviet Union and is still used today.
The lower part of the belay is always used, and top part, most often, they are worn only in difficult climbs or on steep rocks, where there is a possibility of falling and damaging the back due to sudden load. In addition, it is recommended to wear it if there is a risk of hanging upside down to avoid loss of consciousness.
Bowline on a harness
When connecting the upper and lower parts, a carabiner is not used due to the fact that in the event of a sharp jerk, the carabiner may not withstand the load. Therefore, a rope is used to connect the climbing harness and secured to it.
- For this we need a piece of rope approximately 5 meters long. It is best if the rope is soft. It is also possible to use tape.
- Before threading the rope into the belay, you must leave a reserve for the loop.
- It is located between the upper and lower harness, and both free ends are threaded into it after passing through the loops of the upper and lower climbing harness.
- Then the free ends are simultaneously threaded first through the resulting loop of the upper binding, then the lower one.
- Pull the tails through the third loop formed as a result of your actions.
Double harness
Currently, many manufacturers produce a combined harness, as it is also called, five-point. She entwines you with her ribbons and does not allow you to fall out.
Double harnesses are also common for industrial mountaineering. In the second case, it has wider ribbons, a reinforced belt and is much heavier.
Also, most often special metal rings are inserted into it, the back and legs are additionally strengthened, which allows for a long time to be in a harness and not experience discomfort, but on a hike it noticeably increases the weight of the backpack.
It is easy to put on; at the front it is connected, most often, with a carabiner or has regular loops. This design is very convenient and significantly saves time in preparing for climbing or work.
How to make a rope harness
If you find yourself in a situation where you have nothing at hand except a rope, and you need insurance for the descent, do not despair - there is no way to get out of the situation.
Bottom rope harness step by step:
- Fold the rope in half. Pull one end out so that one side is 30-40cm longer than the other.
- We leave the loop in front, and pass the rope between the legs behind the back, then we separate the tails and thread them through the loop from different sides.
- We take the ends behind the back through different sides and forward again, without threading them through the loop.
- You need to make two turns around the waist.
- Secure the rope using any control knot.
- Connect the loop and belt rings with a carabiner.
The top strapping is even simpler:
- Place the rope behind your back.
- Throw one of the ends over the neck, passing additionally under the rope on the back.
- Secure both ends with a bowline knot as shown in the picture.
There is also a full harness option. This type of harness is more reliable, but more difficult to knit. You should not use it if you are not sure that you remember all the steps correctly or that the knot was tied correctly.
Let's take it step by step:
- Fold part of the rope in half to form a loop and wrap it around your body. From the loose tail, folded in half, form a bowline knot.
- Pass the loop through the bowline knot. Leave the loop loose.
- Form another loop and place it over your shoulder over your head, threading it through the loose one. Tighten the knot.
- Form another loop and put it on your leg. Secure it with two knots - one on the leg, and the second pull it to the knots on the belt.
- Pull the rope through the knot on the belt, going through two loops.
- Repeat steps 4 and 5 to correctly make a loop on the second leg.
- Pass the rope through the two loops formed by the knot on the belt.
- The binding is ready.
You should not hope that a climbing rope harness will replace store-bought, or at least home-made, but prepared in advance belay in terms of convenience and functionality. Its purpose is to help you out in a pinch; don’t be surprised if the rope gets chafed during a long descent.
A climbing system or, in other words, a harness most often consists of two parts - upper and lower, which are connected using a mustache with a bowline knot. Thanks to this, there are two knots for self-belaying and fixing the rope. This technique originated during the early days of mountaineering in the Soviet Union and is still used today.
The lower part of the belay is always used, and the upper part, most often, is worn only in difficult climbs or on steep rocks, where there is a possibility of a fall and injury to the back due to a sudden load. In addition, it is recommended to wear it if there is a risk of hanging upside down to avoid loss of consciousness.
Bowline on a harness
When connecting the upper and lower parts, a carabiner is not used due to the fact that in the event of a sharp jerk, the carabiner may not withstand the load. Therefore, a rope is used to connect the climbing harness and is attached to a Bowline knot.
- For this we need a piece of rope approximately 5 meters long. It is best if the rope is soft. It is also possible to use tape.
- Before threading the rope into the belay, you must leave a reserve for the loop.
- It is located between the upper and lower harness, and both free ends are threaded into it after passing through the loops of the upper and lower climbing harness.
- Then the free ends are simultaneously threaded first through the resulting loop of the upper binding, then the lower one.
- Pull the tails through the third loop formed as a result of your actions.
Double harness
Currently, many manufacturers produce a combined harness, as it is also called, five-point. She entwines you with her ribbons and does not allow you to fall out.
Double harnesses are also common for industrial mountaineering. In the second case, it has wider ribbons, a reinforced belt and is much heavier.
Also, most often, special metal rings are inserted into it; the back and legs are additionally strengthened, which allows you to stay in the harness for a long time and not experience discomfort, but during a hike it noticeably increases the weight of the backpack.
It is easy to put on; at the front it is connected, most often, with a carabiner or has regular loops. This design is very convenient and significantly saves time in preparing for climbing or work.
How to make a rope harness
If you find yourself in a situation where you have nothing at hand except a rope, and you need insurance for the descent, do not despair - there is no way to get out of the situation.
Bottom rope harness step by step:
- Fold the rope in half. Pull one end out so that one side is 30-40cm longer than the other.
- We leave the loop in front, and pass the rope between the legs behind the back, then we separate the tails and thread them through the loop from different sides.
- We take the ends behind the back through different sides and forward again, without threading them through the loop.
- You need to make two turns around the waist.
- Secure the rope using any control knot.
- Connect the loop and belt rings with a carabiner.
The top strapping is even simpler:
- Place the rope behind your back.
- Throw one of the ends over the neck, passing additionally under the rope on the back.
- Secure both ends with a bowline knot as shown in the picture.
There is also a full harness option. This type of harness is more reliable, but more difficult to knit. You should not use it if you are not sure that you remember all the steps correctly or that the knot was tied correctly.
Let's take it step by step:
- Fold part of the rope in half to form a loop and wrap it around your body. From the loose tail, folded in half, form a bowline knot.
- Pass the loop through the bowline knot. Leave the loop loose.
- Form another loop and place it over your shoulder over your head, threading it through the loose one. Tighten the knot.
- Form another loop and put it on your leg. Secure it with two knots - one on the leg, and the second pull it to the knots on the belt.
- Pull the rope through the knot on the belt, going through two loops.
- Repeat steps 4 and 5 to correctly make a loop on the second leg.
- Pass the rope through the two loops formed by the knot on the belt.
- The binding is ready.
You should not hope that a climbing rope harness will replace store-bought, or at least home-made, but prepared in advance belay in terms of convenience and functionality. Its purpose is to help you out in a pinch; don’t be surprised if the rope gets chafed during a long descent.
prouzel.ru
Look at any climber - he is all hung with all sorts of pieces of iron: Gri-Gri (in common parlance “grishka”, “gryuha”), carbines, jumars, quickdraws, ropes, reverses, harnesses and other paraphernalia.
- Strapping. What is it and what do you eat it with?
The bindings are different)
Regular sports harness. 
Is the standard of any climber. Moreover, it is divided into sports, speleological and rock climbing. Still others have wider slings. By the way, caving harnesses can also be either separate or complete. Their difference from the main group is that the lower loops are made of sling and do not have soft inserts.
Butterfly. She is the top harness. In common parlance, a bra. 
Needed to unload the upper part of the spine. Insurance in case of a breakdown when you have to climb with a backpack. But it is also more convenient when lifting with a heavy load over your shoulders.
Full harness, also known as an industrial climber's harness. 
#1 – Petzl Navaho Bod Fast
№2 – Rock Empire Skill Uni
No. 3 – Vento promalp
The last system of the three above has the inscription "CAMP"!?
Don’t read further - it’s completely nonsense!
Combines the delights of the upper and lower harness. When jumping, these harnesses are usually used. But no one forbids blocking the top and bottom.
In general, there are a lot of manufacturing companies of this kind of harnesses; I simply showed the main positions using an example.
Canyoning harness. 
This arbor has additional protection so that when climbing in canyons it does not damage the suit.
- Iron. Types and purpose.
The first point is carbines.
There are a lot of carbines. They are all different both in appearance and purpose.
http://www.alpindustria.ru/catalog/alp/13871/ not even full list carbines. Because it would also take a long time to list them: rapids, trapezoids, D-shaped, triangles, square, round, and so on.
But I will tell you about the main ones we use.
So. Standard trapezoid type carabiner. 
Main carbine. Used always and everywhere. Virtually universal.
Rapida. He's Delta. Power snatch carabiner. 
All components that must be especially reliable are closed with just such carabiners. And not necessarily a triangle. They come in D-shaped, square, elongated and so on. Steel, heavy, with a turnkey coupling. Its type depends on the specific situation. They can be used to both block the bodice and the arbor, and tightly fasten the base into the bolt.
Triangle. 
Actually a three-pointer. But in fact, the main load is on the corner, and its opposite bar is the female part. Usually used to fasten a rope into the system. But it can also block the top and bottom of the harness.
Carabiners with quickdraws. 
Two carbines. A loop between them. Why is it needed? Additional suspension? Why, if there are gazebo balconies (loops around the perimeter of the gazebo belt)?
The answer is simple: 
Apparently I hope that the rope is fastened into the guy?
The guy serves as an adapter between the belay and the belay point on the wall.
the tension is fastened into the hook or into the eye of the bolt, and with a second carabiner it is fastened into the main rope. Therefore, if you are climbing with a belayer, then a rope fastened into a quickdraw will prevent you from flying many meters of an impossible climb, because when belaying with a belayer, you will hang on the rope in the area of the quickdraw, and will not immediately fly down. Is insurance.
Carbines come with different couplings. Automatic, semi-automatic, manual, self-locking, screw. The choice depends on the owner (:
- Belay devices.
It's time to talk about one of the main components of any climber's equipment, not counting harnesses and carabiners. In general, the name of the group “belay-belay devices” is not correct, because it is easy to climb on the same griha or figure eight. But first things first.
First place naturally goes to Gri-Gri. 
Automatic belay device
Device for belaying the first or second person in a group, for short descents on a single rope
Automatic braking system: in the event of a fall, the eccentric inside the device is activated and clamps the rope
Easy to use:
— control of the speed of rope wetting is carried out using hands
- hand braking
- stopping a fall by holding the free end of the rope
The device is unlocked using the handle
For ropes with a diameter of 10 to 11 mm (use of a rope with a diameter of 9.7 mm is acceptable)
No worse, although easier to use. Meet the well-known “eight”. 
As you can see, eight is a hell of a lot in appearance and size. With horns, without, round, square, curved and so on... Like carbines, they are aimed at different uses. Personally, in my opinion, here whoever is more comfortable. For me, a straight, elongated two-horned one is much more convenient. Minus eight before the griha - twists the rope.
By the way, the horns are used to block and secure the rope along the route.
Eight is a universal device.
Lattice. She is also a "sleeper". 
In fact, it is identical to griha and figure eight, only the self-blocking principle is different.
Reverso. 
Refers more to descending devices than to belay devices. But you can also insure with it. Fixation and blocking occur by pulling the free end of the rope. Unlike the griha, he can freely work with two ropes. And if the diameter of the verya is critical for the grikha (it doesn’t chew less than 10mm), then load at least a 5mm replica on the reverse)
Devices such as STOP, Desanter. 
The principle of operation is similar to grikha, but less reliable.
Gri-Gri 2 
Belay device for descent. An improved version of the Gri-Gri model. It simplifies the work of the belayer, guarantees a smoother descent, and is designed for working with thin ropes.
— Descent control system provides a smoother descent.
— The device is designed for single ropes with a diameter of 8.9 to 11 mm.
- 20% lighter and 25% more compact device compared to the Gri-Gri model
That's all the difference from the first griha. But many people think the first is better than the second, and I completely agree with them. 
- Lifting devices and clamps.
Zhumar. 
Indeed, any alp has it) Climb a rope, pull a pulley (aka a polyspast, a system of ropes/carabiners/block rollers for lifting, pulling and other forceful methods of working with a rope), secure yourself and secure yourself - all with the help of it. It works according to the Nipple principle - stick it in there, bolt out there) That is, a cam-type system. There are both left and right.
Shunt. 
Multi-purpose rope gripping device. Located under the descender, SHUNT can be used to protect against falls and uncontrolled descents. Works with both single and double rope.
A drop. 
Essentially the same joke)
Crawl. 
Chest clamp (crawl) for climbing a rope. The chrome-plated steel cam features angled teeth and self-cleaning grooves to remove moisture, ice or dirt. The principle of operation is the same as that of a zhumar.
Pantin. It's a crawl on the leg. 
Makes rope climbing easier, used in conjunction with CROLL clamps. Using a leg clamp allows you to keep your body in an upright position, making lifting quicker and less tiring on your arms. Removing from the rope simple movement legs. High-strength, abrasion-resistant fastening straps. Pantin is not part of personal safety equipment. For use on single ropes with a diameter of 8 to 13 m
Self-belaying device ASAP 
Mobile catching device for working on a rope.*Installed on safety rope. * The device is triggered in the event of a fall, slipping or uncontrolled descent. * Triggers even if you grab the device during a fall. * Designed to work on vertical or inclined rope. * Moving along a rope without manual operation of the device (down and up). *Easy to install and remove anywhere on the rope. For semi-static rope with a diameter of 10.5 to 13 mm
- Rollers, blocks.
Well, everything is simple here) There are double, single, detachable, with and without bearings. Well, the choice depends on the purpose and application. I will give photos of the main videos. 
- Rope and cords (reps).
It’s also simple here) Ropes come in different colors - yellow, white, red... And other colors.
But they are divided into 4 types.
Statics. 
An ordinary "hard" rope for all types of work and entertainment.
Manufacturers are a hell of a lot. The simplest, and therefore shitty, is considered to be the Kolomna plant of the Kanat plant in the city of Kolomna. Read people's reviews and you will understand why. Although Fyodor Veredinsky (Ukhtomsky) likes it, he even arranges jumping on it. But that's his choice. We prefer Petzl, Tendon, RockEmpire, Lanex and other foreign companies. Reliable, beautiful, comfortable. I still use Vento, but it’s much better than Kolomna, and it’s made in the Czech Republic, at the Laneksovsky plant. 
Dynamics. 
What is the dynamics?
The main distinguishing feature that determines the type of this rope is its dynamic qualities - the ability to lengthen under load. Even when constructing a rope, depending on the desired performance properties, the ability to elongate is set both during normal use and when absorbing a dynamic shock.
Static with dynamic stimulation.
It's just average garbage between statics and dynamics. It doesn’t even deserve a photo, and that’s understandable.
Rep cord. He's a replica. 
Auxiliary cord for tying Prussian-type lanyards, rope for tying up equipment and gear. From 4 to 6 mm. It can be either nylon or Kevlar.
Well, a little about Daisy Chain.
What kind of animal is this, and what is it consumed with? 
Yes, this is just a sling stitched into several rings.
BUT REMEMBER: This is not self-insurance, but just additional. Some stubborn idiots use desic when clinging to a peregrine falcon, but they clearly haven’t read either the instructions or reviews about this product... And he’s eager for dicks even with his hands.
vk.com
What is self-insurance?
A self-belay is a device that is designed to belay and position a climber on difficult mountain terrain. The self-belay must withstand the greatest calculated jerk without damage or destruction and provide a load of no more than 12 kN on the person who has fallen off.
Self-belaying systems are manufactured industrially or tied with your own hands from dynamic certified rope.
The safety chain includes: the belayer, the belayer's self-belay, the belay station, the belay device, the belay system, intermediate belay points, carabiners and the rope connecting it all.
When choosing equipment for rock climbing, the main rule for forming a safety chain is to use equipment that is certified, tested and manufactured specifically for this task.
For this reason, it is strictly forbidden to use a static rope for a bottom belay and it is not recommended to use a mustache made from a tape for self-belaying. However, it should be remembered that even the use of certified equipment cannot provide guarantees, since the use of erroneous technical techniques or the use of equipment with errors is no less dangerous.
Self-belay from the end of the ligament rope
A lanyard from the end of a ligament rope can be tied in just a few seconds and, at the same time, no additional equipment is needed:
- You need to choose how much rope you need.
- Next you should tie the stirrup.
- Now we insert the carabiner into it.
- Ready.
This method is suitable either for leaders who work on two ropes, or for twos. New UIAA certified dynamic ropes are capable of elongating forty percent or less during a 1.7 pull factor.
The safest self-insurances
They are made from a piece of dynamic rope. This type of self-belay requires about three or four meters of rope. One mustache must be made short and used for clamping. It should have the optimal length so that the jumar, which is fastened to the mustache with a carabiner, is located at face level. The second mustache needs to be made long, but it should not be longer than an outstretched arm. The latter is self-insurance.
To make the lanyard adjustable, you need to add a prusik to the base of the mustache. The catching knot must be tied on the lanyard and attached to the harness in the same way as the lanyard. To shorten, select the slack between the carabiner and the gripping unit.
Such insurance is capable of absorbing the energy of the jerk by tightening the knots, stretching the rope and etching in the grasping unit.
This type of insurance is not recommended for use by mountaineering camp participants.
Ready-made ligament lanyards
An equally safe option is ready-made ligament self-belays. It is desirable that the lanyard is attached to the harness not with a carabiner, but with a semi-grasping knot. In such a situation, the carabiner is an extra link in the safety system.
In the finished lanyard, stitching is used instead of knots. During a fall on such a belay, part of the energy is absorbed by the stretching of the rope. It is forbidden to shorten stitched lanyards from the box, however you can tie a knot as indicated above.
Parcel Prussian
The Parcel Prussian is the best option for lovers of cordalettes and everything Western in general. It is knitted from a piece of cord seven millimeters thick. If the cord complies with EN 564 standards, then it can withstand a minimum of 9.8 kN.
The length of this thing is quite easy to adjust. If it breaks, the rope will be etched by the gripping knot. In combination with stretching the cord, you get a less harsh jerk.
Sterling Chain Reactor, Metolius PAS and the like
The safest of the lanyards not made from rope. Each ring in such lanyards is a power ring. If the insurance is not damaged and is fastened to you with two carabiners, then it is capable of withstanding exactly as much tearing as indicated in the manufacturer’s passport.
A semi-grasping knot can weaken it by 30-60%. When jerking, slings absorb energy worse than rope. A nylon sling can absorb about five percent of the jerk energy, which is very little.
In addition, they can withstand the passport load only if they are fastened with carabiners.
It is advisable to use such a lanyard in combination with a lanyard from the end of the ligament rope.
Self-belays tied from slings
In principle, such insurance was invented for speleologists. For mountaineering, they are not very convenient - a long mustache is suitable for a jumar, and a short one for carrying a basket when descending.
If we talk about the absorption of jerk energy by a self-belay, then these types of belays will absorb worse than rope, but better than Dynama. Fasten it with two carabiners. In fact, there are practically no amenities for climbers, but there are disadvantages.
Tied from slings
Their advantage is that they are very light.
However, they also have several disadvantages:
- Sensitivity to abrasion compared to rope lanyards.
- No length adjustment.
- They absorb the energy of a jerk much worse than a rope.
Daisy chains of various types
Not a single type of Daisy chain is, in fact, a self-insurer - this is what the manufacturers think. The main purpose of Daisy chains is aid - this is a style of climbing in mountaineering, where the support points are artificial.
However, no one is interested in this - many climbers use them as self-belay because of their ease of use.
If you shorten the daisy chain incorrectly, which is not so difficult to do, it will break under a load of two or three hundred kilograms. If you have shortened it correctly but tied any kind of knot, it can lose between thirty and sixty percent of its strength.
For the reasons described above, it is not advisable to use daisy chains as lanyards.
Cliffs
Just like daisy chains, they are not self-belaying and are created specifically for aid. Their breaking load varies from 120 kg for Petzel to 300 kg for Metolius.
Daisy chains can still be used as self-insurance, but this will not work with cliffs, since the line on the buckle will break under the load.
Self-belays for ice tools
They are quite flimsy. Their main task is to prevent ice tools from falling down and breaking under a load of 200 kg. Elastic bands can only be used for ice tools and in no case should they be used for belaying or self-belaying.
Comparison of various types of self-insurances from the passport of Grivel rubber bands
- From the end of the main rope:
- Advantages: safety, easy adjustment, no need for additional equipment.
- Disadvantages - the scope is limited.
- From the main rope:
- Advantages: safety, easy adjustment.
- Disadvantages: bulky in size, inconvenient to remove.
- From the stitched main rope:
- Advantages: safety, easy to take off and put on, mostly more compact than a piece of rope.
- Disadvantages: Cannot be adjusted; mustache length must be chosen carefully.
- Parcel Prussian:
- Advantages: relative safety, easy adjustment, easy to put on and take off, excellent shock absorption.
- Disadvantages - bulky size, difficult to knit, only one mustache.
- PAS and others like it:
- Advantages - relative safety, simple adjustment, easy to put on and take off, does not get tangled underfoot.
- Disadvantages: poor absorption of jerk energy.
- From the sling:
- Advantages: lightweight, easy to take off and put on.
- Disadvantages: impossible to adjust, poor absorption of shock energy, less wear-resistant compared to rope.
- Daisy chain:
- Advantages: lightweight, easy to shorten, easy to take off and put on.
- Cliffs:
- Advantages: easy and convenient to shorten.
- Disadvantages - not self-insurance.
- Rubber bands for tools:
- Advantages: they shorten themselves and are lightweight.
- Disadvantages - not self-insurance.
Thus, the following conclusions can be drawn:
- You can safely use it - from the end of the main rope, sewn from rope, from a piece of rope.
- Use carefully - parsel prusiks, made from sewn rings.
- It is not recommended to use - clips, daisy chains, tied slings, elastic bands for tools.
In conclusion, I would like to say that belay, like no other part of mountaineering technique, requires regular and constant training and attention. Experienced climbers, who have been climbing together for many years and have an excellent command of climbing techniques, in practice may never experience the real need to act in the event of a failure of a climbing partner.
Therefore, it is necessary to know the procedure to follow during a breakdown. In addition, it is necessary to be able to reliably and correctly organize a belay station - to efficiently use the relief and microrelief to implement belay and self-belay techniques.
zextrem.com
Australian guide
The Australian guide is used to organize attachment points on the base rope, to isolate a damaged section of the rope, to make a rope stretcher, to fasten the middle participant to the bundle, for which it is often called the “middle knot.” This knot is sometimes called the "Bergschaft knot."
The knot is reliable, works well in any of three directions, does not slip even on wet ropes and is easily untied after removing the load applied to it. In addition, it does not greatly reduce the strength of the rope on which it is tied. The disadvantages of the Australian wire include the relative difficulty of tying and the inability to adjust the size of the loop after tightening the knot.
Rice. 92. Australian guide
Australian wire knot tying sequence
1. Form a closed loop on the rope and, having secured it, turn the upper half 180° so that you get a loop in the form of a figure eight.
2. Lower the top of the figure eight down and pass it into the middle loop.
3. Tighten the loop.
The bowline, or gazebo knot, is one of the most famous and widely used knots in mountaineering and tourism.
According to archaeologists, tying a rope with a knot similar to a bowline was found among the Egyptians and Phoenicians in 3000 BC. e. Subsequently, it found wide use in the sailing fleet, where it was called the “bowline knot” or “gazebo knot.” Its first name comes from a nautical term for gear used to control a straight sail. The second name for the bowline is the “gazebo knot”, since it is with it that the board is tied - a gazebo for sailors to work with during repairs overboard or on masts. For its versatility, reliability and wide application, the bowline is often called the “king of knots”.
Structurally, the bowline combines elements of a simple, weaving, straight knot, folding into a non-tightening loop at the end of the rope. It occupies a leading position in mountaineering, tourism, and rescue work. It is this that most athletes prefer to use as a tying knot when descending and ascending, tying around a support, for lifting loads and rescuing people, when connecting ropes. Such a widespread use of the bowline is not surprising, since, in addition to its versatility in use, it has a number of significant advantages over other knots: it is easy to untie after removing the load, can be used on all types of ropes, has a strength of 50–70%, and can be easily tied around yourself with one hand. However, it must be taken into account that under a jerky (variable) load this unit can slip, to avoid which the free end must be secured with a control unit. There are many options for tying this knot. Let's focus on one of them.
Rice. 93. Bowline
Eight
This knot is used in mountaineering, tourism and speleology for tying, fastening in narrow holes (with a carabinerless attachment to bolt hooks), fastening to devices with a thickness of 10–11 mm, and also for connecting ropes using the “loop-to-loop” method. The knot is quite reliable, has no tendency to slip even on wet ropes, is easy to knit, and has sufficient strength - up to 55% (the stability of the knot increases if the turns of the rope are laid parallel to each other). The disadvantages of the figure eight include poor decoupling after removing the load.
Rice. 94. Eight
Double gazebo
This knot is a type of bowline and performs similar tasks, but, unlike it, it has two loops. When tying, its running end is much longer, since after the formation of the first knot it is once again launched along the loop, repeating its route inside the previously tied knot. Such a knot has all the advantages of a bowline, but is much more reliable and allows you to secure a person during rescue operations by grabbing a second loop around the chest.
A double arbor knot can be knitted not only with a single end of the rope, but also with a double loop.
Rice. 95. Double gazebo
Double conductor
This knot has a second name - “rabbit ears”. In rock climbing and tourism, it is used to organize a hitch simultaneously using two independent supports, to transport victims during rescue operations, and as a strapping unit.
The knot is easy to tie (can be tied with one hand), holds the load well and does not slip, so it does not require the installation of control knots. The double conductor knot, due to the distribution of the load over two loops, has a high tensile strength coefficient. The disadvantage of the knot is that it is difficult to untie after removing the load.
Rice. 96. Double conductor
The nine knot is used in mountaineering, speleology and tourism as a tying knot, for belaying and looping ropes up to 11 mm thick. Often used in combination with a carbine. Its main advantage is its fairly high strength, reaching 70–74%, the reliability of the knot under variable loads, and ease of tying.
Rice. 97. Nine
Conductor node
This knot has several names: “conductor”, “simple conductor”, “clover leaf”, “oak loop”.
The guide knot is used in mountaineering and speleology to secure a rope to the terrain, a safety system, railing ropes, and to connect ropes through a loop - carabiner - loop system.
The knot is easy to tie (can be tied with one hand), is quite reliable, holds the load well and is not subject to slipping. But after removing the load on wet and frozen ropes, it does not unravel easily. Its disadvantages include the angular location of the knot in relation to the main rope and poor operation on thick ropes and cables. In addition, this knot, more than other conductors, weakens the rope on which it is tied.
Rice. 98. Conductor node
Next chapter >
diy.wikireading.ru
The ability to tie climbing knots can be useful not only for fans of extreme tourism or rock climbing, but also for any work with ropes in Everyday life. For example, on vacation to securely fasten the tent ropes, at home - to hang laundry or tie a bag with cargo. By the way, many people don’t even realize that they tie their shoelaces with a double reef knot! So, as has already become clear, a piece of extreme tourism has firmly penetrated our lives.
What are climbing knots and what are they used for?
Mankind, despite all the technical progress, has not been able to come up with anything better, more convenient and more reliable for climbing than ropes. However, they need to be secured to a support, connected to each other, etc. For climbers (including industrial ones), the ability to knit reliable knots is extremely necessary, since their lives often depend on it. No one can say for sure how many ways there are currently to tie a rope.
Insurance
Many climbing knots, especially connecting ones, require additional fastening, because under jerks and loads the ropes can “crawl” in different directions. Therefore, you can often see an additional control node at the free end. It is very simple and familiar to us since childhood, and everyone has used it. To tie it, the running end of the rope is wrapped around the fixed (root) end. The result is a loop. The running end is threaded into it and tightened. A simple node is ready. When using it as a “control”, I tie it around the main cable. Almost all the simplest mountaineering knots require additional insurance, as they tend to “creep”.
Straight knot
Used to connect two cables of the same diameter. One of the most ancient knots. Archaeologists claim that it was used in Ancient Egypt, around the 5th millennium BC. It is tied very simply: these are two half-knots that are sequentially tied one above the other. However, it is necessary to ensure that the ropes move correctly: both ends of one cable should come out under the loops, and the second - above them. Otherwise, you will end up with a very unreliable woman’s knot that will not hold when jerked or loaded. Then the ropes will fall apart, and the matter may end in disaster. A correctly tied knot is shown in picture 1 (4th from the left).
When using a straight knot, you must remember that it can “crawl” and come undone under high load or a sharp and strong jerk, as well as if the cable is wet. Therefore, there should always be a simple “control” at the two free ends. Then, under load, the knot will only tighten tighter and become practically unbreakable.
"Grapevine"
A more reliable way to connect two ends, since this knot does not tend to come undone. But you will also have to tinker with unlearning. But it can be used for ropes of different diameters. Also used to create loops and guy lines. Another important “plus” of this unit is aesthetics. It looks good and practically does not interfere with the work with the cable. However, you will have to practice to learn more complex mountaineering knots. The diagrams will help with this.
"Eight"
Consider the following climbing knots. How to knit a figure eight? This is one of the most multifunctional units. Can be used as a control and stopper. It does not come undone under any load and is gentle on the cable. Thus, with strong traction, a simple knot greatly damages the ropes, reduces their strength and is very tight. The figure eight can be untied after strong tension, and the cable will not lose its strength.
Its other use is as a conductor knot, when it is used to make a loop on a rope. Then you can throw it on some support or thread it into a carabiner.
This knot is made almost in the same way as a simple one: the running end goes behind the main one, but is not immediately threaded into the loop, but makes another half turn. The cable starts as if from below.
It is known to use a figure eight for tying two ropes. In this case, a knot is loosely tied at the end of one cord, and a second one is threaded into it, strictly parallel. This is called a "counter eight". One of the most reliable and simple ways connections. Does not require insurance.
Bowline, or gazebo
There are special climbing harnesses. Bowline is the main one. This non-tightening loop is used for tying and belaying. Just like simple and straight knots, it has been known to mankind since ancient times. Archaeologists found it in excavations 3000 years ago. In its classic form, it was used to raise or lower people and various objects. The person was tied around his armpits, and the things were simply threaded through a loop. Sailors often called the bowline the “king of knots.” It is very reliable under a stable load of any size, but during jerks it can “creep”, which leads to uncoupling. Therefore, it is recommended to insure the free end with a “control”.
Tying a bowline is easy. There are several ways. One of them is shown in the diagram above. There is another way to do this. To do this, the running end is encircled around the main end. The middle part of the free rope is pulled into the resulting loop. The running end is threaded into the resulting loop. Now you need to pull the root part of the rope. It turns out that the middle loop seems to turn in the opposite direction. Now you need to tighten the knot tightly and tie a safety net at the free end. Climbers simply must be able to make a bowline on themselves. You can also tie a bow knot with one hand. But it's a little more complicated.
Counter knot
Used in cases where it is necessary to connect ropes of different diameters. Climbing knots are also suitable for tying ribbons and flat cables. The positive aspects include ease of execution, versatility and a wide range of applications. Under heavy load, it does not “creep” or come loose, but it can tighten very tightly. The latter can be considered a negative point, since the cable may become damaged.
The knot is knitted as follows. A loose simple knot is made at the free end of the rope. The second cable is led towards, parallel to all bends. Then tighten tightly.
"Stirrup"
A very original knot, which is indispensable for various ascents and descents, since it allows you to create support for the leg in any place and at any time when it is needed. In addition, it allows you to fix the rope on supports or make railings out of it. As the name implies, its appearance resembles a stirrup near a saddle. An important feature of the knot is that it unties as soon as the load is removed. Even with strong jerks and high tension on the rope, the “stirrup” does not tighten tightly.
Tying it is very simple: two loops are made in the right place on the rope and crossed with each other. The node is ready.
Finally, I would like to note that knitting climbing nodes- an activity necessary not only for climbers. It is useful and exciting even in everyday life. In addition, when working with ropes, motor skills improve. This skill can come in handy at the most unexpected moment, so practice and be sure to learn at least 2-3 knots!
