The English Club on Tverskaya Street in Moscow is located in a building of bizarre fate - first an old manor, then for a long time elite English club, for a short time - a hospital, then the Museum of the Revolution, and now - the Museum modern history Russia. In my review, I want to show what remains in this building from the time of the English Club. First, I note that this is the only classical facade on the entire Tverskaya Street that was not distorted by later restructuring.
The building of the former English club. View of the central part and the right wing
This part of the city has been built up for a long time, but the first stone house was erected here in 1780 by Lieutenant General A.M. Kheraskov - now this building is the central part of the English Club building on Tverskaya Street
Kheraskov himself was a Freemason and secret meetings of the first Masonic circle in Moscow were held in his house. Until now, symbols of the Masonic tradition have been preserved in the external and internal decor of the house, therefore the building of the English Club is an indispensable object of excursions dedicated to the traces of Masons in Moscow. At the beginning of the 19th century, Count Lev Kirillovich Razumovsky bought the estate on Tverskaya and rebuilt the main building: in 1811, the left wing appeared, and in 1817, the right wing.
Left wing of the former English club (Razumovsky's estate)
During the Napoleonic invasion, the house survived the fire, but the interiors were hopelessly damaged: French soldiers set up a slaughterhouse in the house.
Street facade of the left wing of the former English Club (Razumovsky's estate)
It was under Razumovsky that the estate acquired a stone fence along the street line with two symmetrical gates and two gates. The pylons of all the gates are crowned with figures of lions, which Pushkin immortalized in "Eugene Onegin", describing Tatyana's entry into Moscow:
“... Balconies, lions on the gates,
And flocks of jackdaws on crosses.
After the death of Razumovsky, the house passed to Prince N. Vyazemsky, who sold it to the English Club in 1831. In general, the history of English clubs in Russia began in the last third of the 18th century, when gentlemen's clubs first appeared in St. Petersburg and then in Moscow. They became the centers of social and political life, largely determining public opinion. The English Club was of particular importance in Moscow. It was an elite aristocratic assembly, membership in which meant high status and position in the world. The admission of new members was limited and carried out only on the basis of recommendations, and even titled nobles could stand in line for years and not have time to become members of the club until the end of their lives.
The role of the English Club in the social life of the capital, in my opinion, is most clearly characterized by the frequent mention of the club in the literature of that time. We will meet this name in works of art, in the diaries and letters of A.S. Pushkin, A.S. Griboedov, L.N. Tolstoy, N.V. Gogol, V.A. Gilyarovsky, V.A. MN Zagoskin and many, many others. The classic phrases from "Woe from Wit" "... The juice of smart youth" and "Let's make noise, brother, make noise!" — it's all about the English club. The first volume of "War and Peace" describes a gala dinner in the Aglitsky club in honor of Prince Bagration, only it did not take place on Tverskaya, but at one of the club's former addresses. After all, before the English Club was located in the former estate of Count Razumovsky, it repeatedly changed its location.
Now the entrance to the building of the former English Club on Tverskaya is through the main porch of the central part of the building. We find ourselves in such a foyer
This vestibule retained the colonnade, ceiling decor and staircase to the second floor. All beams of the ceiling are decorated with the same images of wands entwined with ivy and three medallions. The head of the Gorgon Medusa is depicted on the central medallion.
The same motif is repeated on the lattice of the stairs.
Now, when climbing the main staircase, we are met by a mosaic panel on a revolutionary theme, and during the time of the English Club, a portrait of the current sovereign-emperor hung here. But we are looking at the stucco ceiling, which corresponds to the period of interest to us.
For the period of the English Club, the entrance to the second floor has also been restored (roller shutters are not taken into account)
Look at the caryatids with faces of perfect proportions
Behind this entrance, the halls of the museum begin, where the permanent exhibition is located. In the very first halls nothing reminds of the English Club. But in the second or third hall you can see columns and pilasters made of artificial marble of the classical Corinthian order
Stucco molding corresponding to the style on the ceiling
The walls of the hall in its lower part are almost completely covered by the exposition and, it seems, there is nothing left of the former interiors.
The only room whose interior has been preserved from the time of the English Club is the Newspaper Room.
The fact is that in addition to political discussions, the English Club was famous for its cuisine, card games and library. So, the club's library was considered the best in Russia and had the richest collection of Russian periodicals since 1813. During the absence of television and the Internet, people came here to find out the news - the club subscribed to many Russian and foreign newspapers and magazines. And you could read them just in the room called the newspaper room.
It was forbidden to speak loudly in the newspaper and library, take away publications without appropriate design, and even transfer them to other halls - fines were due for this. These rules were established by the club's charter. After all, the English Club was one of the first Russian public organizations: all positions in the club were elective, and activities were carried out in accordance with the charter.
There are no museum showcases with exhibits in the newspaper room, but in different parts of the room fragments of the interiors of the club halls are recreated. For example, here is a fragment of the library
In it, I most of all liked the lamp of the green lampshade, bronze, with patina. Although the leather bindings with gold inscriptions behind the cupboard glasses also inspire respect
Here is a fragment of the fruit room, i.e. premises where light snacks, salads, fruits were served - according to current concepts, this would be a cafe or a bar
The finest work of the screen deserves attention here. It is made of wood, carved and painted.
The same rarity - this sideboard for tea utensils
Look how graceful bronze plates and enamel medallions it is decorated with.
By the way, about food. In the English Club, in general, a lot of time and attention was paid to the art of cooking. It is no coincidence that A.S. Pushkin, describing Onegin's visit to the English Club, ironically remarks "... He hears about porridges of debate." The cuisine and chefs of the club were considered the best in Russia, and the members of the club sent their chefs to study at the English Club. Luxurious dinners of the club were famous throughout Moscow
In the newspaper room, a mirror has been preserved, which seems to be genuinely Venetian
By the way, women were not allowed in the English Club, even as servants, not to mention guests. In the entire history of the existence of the English Club, ladies could visit it only three times, during the coronation celebrations of Russian monarchs. But even then the ladies were honored only with breakfast and inspection of some rooms. Now all visitors can admire the luxurious interiors
Columns and pilasters, in the fashion of those years, are made of artificial marble. The ceiling and walls are painted using the grisaille technique - that is, a drawing that imitates volume due to tone variations of the same color.
And here is exactly the same wall decor, but already partially made in volume
In some arches there are volumetric bas-reliefs depicting scenes from Greek mythology.
On the ceiling in three round plafonds of painting
The muses are depicted in the plafonds - the patroness of the arts and sciences, because the purpose of the room is education
By the way, the word "museum" comes from the Greek name for the temple of the muses.
On the walls there are lamps with a mirror substrate, so that more light is obtained due to reflection.
There is a magnificent chandelier in the newspaper room. According to the guide, it is genuine, only converted to electricity
After the newspaper, sightseers are usually led into the next room. Being in the English club twice and with different guides, I heard two of its names: a talking shop and an infernal one. The talking shop - because they could talk on various topics without interference, and the infernal, that is, hellish - because they played cards in it and lost big. Be that as it may, now in this room there is practically nothing left of the interiors. The columns decorated with carvings are interesting here…
…and authentic lamps. A large chandelier, in addition to the finest intricate pattern, is interesting with the figure of a winged angel in the center and numerous figures of either warriors or hunters arranged around the circumference. I was most struck by the fact that not only the bows in the hands of the warriors were carefully made, but also the string on them (!)
There is also a smaller lamp in the infernal room
Various exhibits of the museum are exhibited in this hall in showcases and without. For example, mantel clock, Paris, 19th century
The interior of the office of the elder of the English Club (the end of the 19th - the beginning of the 20th century) is also recreated here.
The next hall, in which elements of decor of the 19th century are recreated, is the hall with a fireplace. Here general form ceiling
On the ceiling, grisaille paintings frame the central ceiling. These paintings contain images of purely decorative elements - wreaths, shields, cornucopias, etc. – and mythological scenes
But the main attention is attracted, of course, by the picturesque ceiling in the center of the ceiling.
The hall is not strictly rectangular in shape; at one end it ends with a semi-rotunda. The arch of this alcove is painted with images of garlands, acanthus leaves, cornucopias, and the semicircular shape is emphasized by a strongly protruding cornice with rich stucco decoration
It is here, between the columns, that there is a fireplace, according to which this hall is sometimes called a fireplace room.
Marble fireplace at the end of the mantel is decorated with medallions with Roman profiles
The vertical walls of the fireplace are also decorated with carved marble bas-reliefs.
When I first visited the museum, how many years ago, I didn’t remember this fireplace at all: either it was so “fitted” into the museum exposition that it was dissolved in it, or it was completely closed. During my last visit, there was only an exposition of paintings in the fireplace hall, there were no showcases or stand-alone exhibits, only canvases on the walls - accordingly, the hall looked more integral and significant, as an independent exposition unit. Also in this hall you should definitely pay attention to the chandeliers.
They are again authentic, converted to electricity. As far as the camera allows, I try to show this fine work. Here are a variety of figures and images: virgins, angels with wings, torches with wreaths
After the fireplace hall, there is a whole series of rooms, in which only separate elements of decor relating to the period of interest to us have been preserved. Here, for example, is a hall with a very interesting ceiling: a hexagon is inscribed in the rectangle of the ceiling, and a circle is inscribed in it, which is the base of the dome
The corners and the part of the ceiling not occupied by the dome are decorated with stucco with images of griffins, winged maidens, wreaths and masks.
In another room, along the perimeter of the ceiling, there is a very peculiar stucco molding, even with a kind of brackets decorated with images of figures - I don’t remember seeing such a thing anywhere else
In the next room, in addition to the stucco molding around the perimeter of the ceiling, bas-reliefs on historical or mythological themes were restored above the doors.
There is another large hall with restored ceiling paintings on a barrel vault.
Tour guides don't say anything about it. When I asked if there were always grisaille paintings here or is it a simplified restoration, they didn’t answer anything intelligible to me.
In conclusion, let me remind you that now this building houses the Museum of Contemporary History of Russia. Although the topic of my story was only the English Club, the exposition of the museum also deserves attention. It covers the period approximately from the beginning of the twentieth century to the present day, the zero years of this century are already represented here. You will see memorable objects, faces, events in a new light, from a completely different angle. So whatever your age, you can feel like a piece of history and a contemporary of historical events.
Ceiling in the passages of the English Club
How to get into the English club
The former English Club, now the Museum of Contemporary History of Russia, is located at 21 Tverskaya St. The closest to get there is from Tverskaya and Pushkinskaya metro stations. At these stations, get off when moving from the center to the beginning of the train, then go to the other side of Tverskaya, where McDonald's
The museum is open from 11:00 to 19:00, closed on Mondays. A ticket costs 250 rubles, there are benefits for pensioners, university students and other categories of visitors. The museum does not belong to the Department of Culture of Moscow, so there is no free admission on the third Sunday of each month.
In the museum you can order excursions, both sightseeing and thematic. I want to draw your attention to the fact that the museum is historical, and if you are interested in the history of the house and architectural and art history, then you need to clarify whether these issues will be covered on the tour and how deeply.
6+The library of the cultural center "ZIL" hosts exciting meetings of people who study English and want to practice in live communication. Readers gather here every week, because conversational clubs here are not ordinary, but literary, dedicated to the discussion of a particular work. You can learn more about the work of the English Literature Club. Meetings are held on Wednesdays (beginning at 19:00), the duration of the lesson is 2 hours. Free admission.
st. Vostochnaya, d. 4, building. 1 st. B. Cherkizovskaya, 4/1
Dial on Kuznetsky Most
12+
Everything is free except minutes
A conversation club gathers in the anti-cafe, classes are held every Saturday. Here you need to pay only for the time (3 rubles per minute in the first and second hours, 2 rubles per minute in the following hours, after 4 hours the time becomes free), you can bring a snack with you. By the way, the course is taught by native speakers. Start - at 16:00. After that, you can stay and chat at least until the morning.
st. Kuznetsky Most, 19, building 1Anticafe Wooden Door
A unique anti-cafe with communication in foreign languages. Meetings of the English Speaking Club ("English Spiking Club") are held regularly, but you can communicate in English at any time - all administrators speak English high level, and one of them is a foreigner who does not understand a word of Russian. Classes are free, but you need to pay for the standard time spent in the anti-cafe (2 rubles per minute in the first hour, subsequent - 1 ruble per minute).
Milyutinsky per., 6 (entrance to the arch)The AMC, which is essentially an American-style library, hosts conversation clubs on various topics. For example, you can talk to employees of the American embassy in Moscow. Participate in meetings conversation club can students with different levels of training. Often, native speakers are invited to such meetings, which makes learning even more interesting.
Novinsky Blvd., 21
Members of the One Step Forward club ("One Step Forward") regularly meet in different cafes, starting at 19:00. New faces are always welcome here, the required language level is at least Intermediate. There will be speaking practice, and grammar (where without it), as well as games, positive emotions and many new acquaintances. Meetings are free, but it's better to buy a cup of coffee at the coffee shop where the meeting is held.
st. Kozhevnicheskaya, 10, building 1
Novoslobodskaya metro station, at the exit turn left, cross the road and go straight along Dolgorukovskaya street towards the Garden Ring for 5-7 minutes. House number 6 follows immediately after house number 32, opposite it is Soyuzmultfilm. This is a building with white columns and an ALIBRA SCHOOL banner.
How to get there by car:
Outside the Garden Ring
When driving along Sadovaya-Samotechnaya Street, keep right. At the exit to Oruzheyny Lane, turn right onto Dolgorukovskaya Street and go straight. After the Dental Institute, you will see a large red building with white columns and an ALIBRA SCHOOL banner.
From the inside of the Garden Ring
Move along Sadovaya-Samotechnaya Street until a U-turn on outside rings. After the U-turn, move along Sadovaya-Karetnaya Street, keep to the right. Then turn onto Dolgorukovskaya street and go straight. After the Dental Institute, you will see a large red building with white columns and an ALIBRA SCHOOL banner.
The Novoslobodskaya branch is located within walking distance from the metro station. It will be convenient to get to English in ALIBRA from Krasnopreletarskaya, and from Seleznevskaya, and from Fadeeva Street. The journey will take you no more than 20 minutes.
Students who wish to enroll in an English course at Novoslobodskaya can also study French and Spanish at this department. Thanks to unique methodology educational center ALIBRA SCHOOL students successfully achieve a decent level of language proficiency from scratch in the shortest possible time.
Courses in English at the Novoslobodskaya (Mendeleevskaya) metro station — a great opportunity to master the most demanded foreign language under the guidance of attentive and experienced teachers for short term at an affordable price. In order to be convinced of the uniqueness of our school and understand that the courses from ALIBRA SCHOOL are exactly what you need, you can sign up for an open lesson, information about which is available on our website.
