Proper spinning equipment. Changing the reel seat on the lapdog Attaching the reel to the spinning rod

Majority predatory fish of impressive size, they are well caught on spinning. Such fishing is notable for its simplicity, but it requires a large amount of gear. A novice angler who does not know how to properly equip a spinning rod can be confused when choosing equipment that is sold in large quantities by fishing stores. In our article, we will tell you how to assemble spinning tackle correctly, which will be very useful for beginners in fishing.

How to do spinning?

Spinning tackle includes a rod to which a reel of fishing line is attached and special equipment or bait. All components must be correctly selected and assembled. Otherwise, there may be problems in the operation of the rod.

rod

A spinning rod for catching predatory fish must have the following characteristics:

Experienced anglers for spinning fishing It is recommended to use spinning reels. There are also multiplier ones on sale, but they have insufficient sensitivity and casting distance.

Coil Specifications:

It is best to buy a device from trusted sellers from well-known manufacturers who can guarantee Good work coils.

fishing line

When hunting with spinning, you can use a regular monofilament fishing line or braided line. Monofilaments are mostly soft and elastic, so when using them, the bite is not felt very strongly. The fact that the fish is on the hook can be seen by the twitching of the fishing line.

Advantages of a monofilament:

• practically does not twist;
• does not form beards;
• fits well on the spool.

When using braided fishing lines, bite and wiring are more sensitive. It is recommended to choose hard braids, as they have an increased sensitivity of spinning.

Braid Benefits:

• the cord is stronger in structure than monofilament and fluorocarbon fishing line;
• under heavy loads, it does not lose elasticity and does not stretch, which allows you to use tackle many times;
• has excellent sensitivity to bites;
• unlike monofilament line, it does not break under heavy loads.

The best diameter for spinning braided cord is 0.12–0.15 mm.

Leash

When hunting for predatory fish, the presence of a leash is mandatory. This is explained by the fact that a pike or other predator can easily cut through the main line with its sharp teeth.

Leash types:

Lures

When assembling a spinning rod, it is used a large number of variety of lures.

How to collect spinning?

Having bought and prepared all the tackle for assembly, the first thing to do is to attach the reel to the rod. To do this, the mount is unscrewed on the handle, and the reel is inserted into the reel seat. The mount will need to be fixed more tightly, otherwise the coil may fly out when casting.

Line winding

A fishing line is wound onto a reel attached to the spinning rod. It's pretty easy to do this:

Connection of fishing line and leash

Leashes can be tied to the fishing line using an ordinary fishing knot. It is done as follows:

• the fishing line is inserted into the swivel, the eye of which is scrolled with fingers 7 or 8 times;
• it turns out a loop into which the free end of the fishing line is threaded;
• knot is tightened.

The swivel and carabiner are devices that protect the fishing line from twisting. It is especially recommended to use them if spinners will be used as bait. The carabiner has a clasp, which allows you to quickly change lures during fishing. The swivel prevents the line from twisting, thereby facilitating the installation of the spinning rod and its casting, as well as increasing the service life of the line.

Installation of lures

There are many ways to connect baits to a spinning rod. It all depends on the type of bait itself. Silicone lures The easiest way to tie is with a jig head. Hook head weight can have different shapes and weight categories. The weight of the load and the size of the hook is selected depending on the length of the bait and the depth of the reservoir.

Types of equipment for spinning

There are several spinning rigs:

1. Connection of the bait with the swivel directly.
2. The bait with a swivel is connected with a steel or other strong leash that the sharp teeth of a predator cannot bite through.
3. Sbirulino allows you to cast light baits, as it is a heavy float.
4. A drop shot is a specific type of rig used to fish from a steep bank or boat.
5. A retractable leash is used to lure and catch a predator in the near-bottom zone.

Lure spinning tackle:

If spinning with a feeder, then the following gear is selected:

• for reservoirs without a current, the test load of the rod can be from 40 to 60 g, for fast rivers from 100 to 1400;
• you can use a regular fishing line or cord, the thickness of which depends on the size of the prey;
• the reel can be inertia or inertialess, but must necessarily contain at least 100 meters of fishing line;
• mandatory use of leashes with a carabiner;
• the feeder is both a bait and a sinker;
• a bite signaling device in the form of a bell during the day and a firefly at night.

Rules for using spinning

The assembled spinning before casting should be checked again and make sure that all parts of the equipment are well connected to each other. Now you can cast the bait by holding the fishing line with your index finger and at the same time removing the restraining arc on the reel with your other hand. After that, the rod is brought back and sharply thrown forward towards the place where the fish can be. In this case, the finger is removed and the lek is released. Casting can be done in a different way, since everyone has their own technique.

After casting with the help of spinning, the bait is wired with or against the flow. If the casting will be made from the shore, then so that the lure does not drift to the side, the rod drops closer to the water. If the predator is caught from a boat, and the stream is moving towards, then you need to make sure that the bait swims faster than water. In the expected habitats of predatory fish, spinners and wobblers must be carried out more carefully.

Predators live mainly near steep banks, capes, sunken logs, large pitfalls. By correctly assembling a spinning rod with high-quality tackle, finding the habitat of the fish and carefully conducting the wiring, you will definitely return home with prey.

How to wind a fishing line on a spool

For good fishing and a trophy catch, all spinning elements must be of high quality and properly balanced, and, of course, you need to know how to wind the line on the reel correctly. You should carefully choose the rod itself, as well as all the equipment on it, otherwise it can fail you more than once and cause a lot of trouble. And of course, special attention should be paid to how to properly wind the fishing line on the reel so that knots do not form and, for example, the inertial reel functions properly without jambs. The winding of the line on the reel affects many characteristics of the rod, including the casting distance of the tackle, as well as the chance of beards. But many beginners do not betray this value and make unforgivable mistakes. What is worth and what cannot be done and how to wind a braided line on a reel?

Any good fishing It starts with quality preparation, including how to properly wind the braid onto the spool.

Among the main points you should keep an eye on:

1. How much fishing line can fit on a spinning reel before winding the reel. Many beginners ask themselves the question “how much fishing line to wind on a reel?” and the answer to it is prosaic - enough. The entire reel should be covered with it so that you have enough length for long casts, but "slides" should be avoided, because they can lead to not the most pleasant consequences.
2. With what force the equipment is wound on the reel, especially when the line is wound on spools, where the tension force is very important. If you overdo it, winding the line on the reel, then you will not be able to make good long-range casts, the tackle simply cannot overcome the resistance. The easiest way to control this is the old-fashioned way - wind the fishing line with two fingers, without auxiliary means.
3. Determine if you are winding the line on the spinning reel in the right direction. The spools rotate both counter-clockwise and clockwise, but their direction must always coincide with the direction of winding. If you notice an oversight, barely having time to tie a knot, then a couple of rotations of the snap will help rewind everything to its original position.

It is also important how you tie the knot around the reel, in no case should this aspect be lowered through the sleeves, otherwise the tackle may simply go to the bottom along with the fishing line when fishing big fish. You should dwell in more detail on how the fishing line is wound from the bobbin, because here, too, there are some nuances. It is better if you wind the fishing line on the reel in this case there will be several people, one of whom will hold the reel, and the second - the rod and reel. One of the nuances of how to properly wind the fishing line from the bobbin is to use an oblong object, be it an ordinary stick or even a pen.

Such a device is inserted into the reel itself, after which the second person begins to spin the tackle on the rod until the desired length is reached. Be careful when winding the line onto the spool.

If you need to fill the fishing line correctly, but you don’t have a partner, then you can use the same stick stuck in the ground, or any other object where you can plant a bobbin. If you decide to fill the line into the reel before fishing, then an ordinary door handle or even a handle from a carpenter's vise will do. The main thing is to watch how the spinning reel is wound up so that no knots or “partings” form, which can lead to tangling gear. You should also choose the type of reel for the fish you want to catch, because inertial ones are better suited for some, and some species are easier to fish with inertial ones.

Correct winding occurs when one end of the tackle is fixed on the spool itself. To do this, it is enough to slightly raise the line guide and hold the equipment to the spool itself, and here it is important to know how to tie the line to the spool correctly. Make a small loop and throw it over the spool, then tighten it and check the strength of the structure and whether the line was threaded correctly. When using a regular fishing rod, it is enough to tie a simple marine knot on the reel itself. And on spinning reel you should already put on the tackle according to the method described above. Also, be careful when using an inertial reel, because you need to carefully wind the line, giving it a slight tension. Such a scheme will easily make even the most distant casts.

More important nuance in how to wind the cord, the speed of rotation of the gear remains.

But how does the process of winding braid on a reel generally take place, how to fix the fishing line and how many meters of fishing line should you take with you when fishing in case of emergency? And how to set the gear correctly?

To do everything right, you must first fix the fishing line on the spinning reel, just thread it into the spool, as described above. You can attach to this part of the gear different ways, directing the knot in any direction, it all depends on the preferences of each individual fisherman. Beginners sometimes rewind everything several times due to an error at this stage, and even for a braided line, the usual “noose” is suitable. We put this knot on the spool, after which you can start putting on the bobbin, as long as there is enough space for the coil. This stage is called breaking - the moment when you start to wind the tackle on the reel and many beginners do not calculate the amount of fishing line.

This leaves large voids near one of the edges, which they try to fix with uneven wrapping and start tying tape to distribute the rig. However, in the heat, the polymer base can simply melt, which completely destroys all your hopes for a successful catch. You can replace the wrong tape with regular fishing clips or with small knots on the rig itself, which will limit its movement in the reel, which in turn will minimize slipping. In this case, you should be patient, because even an experienced fisherman says the following: “Sometimes I wind up the line on new reels 2-3 times until it seems to me that I did it perfectly ...”.

If you don't want to get in trouble when you're trying to charge a new braid, then follow these guidelines:

1. First fix the reel on the rod, and when you tie a knot for the fishing line, check the fixation. After all, some people first knit knots, wind up tackle and only then attach all the equipment together to the rod, which is a gross mistake. When we cast braid without a rod, it can form beards and tangles, as well as become helical during subsequent casts.
2. To make winding easy and convenient, you will need a partner. Otherwise, you are unlikely to be able to give the necessary tension, and no matter how you stretch the tackle in this case, it will not work to avoid dismounts. So having your friend holding the reel and you holding the rod is the best fit for this situation.
3. When all the gear is installed, make sure once again that you can lay the line evenly on the reel, while the distance from both edges to the filled part should not exceed a couple of millimeters.

Beginners can make the most mistakes when we “thread” the fishing line to the spool and subsequently tie a knot. Therefore, thread it several times and experiment not only with the noose, but also with other fastening variations, this will allow you to find the most convenient for you personally.

Just as fishing methods differ depending on the type of reel, so the method of winding can be different depending on conventional or inertial tackle.

So, it should be noted that:

1. Spinning reels do not have a spool, so insert the line onto the headband itself and simply secure it with a regular marine knot.
2. Putting on a fishing line on a rod with an inertial reel is quite simple and there are no nuances here, because this type of gear is considered the most common.
3. With multiplier reels, everything is even better, because you only need to tie one knot, and the styling will go like clockwork. The fishing line is passed along such a rod quite simply, but there are no large gaps left.

Experiment and find the most convenient combinations specifically for your needs.

After acquiring a spinning rod and all other necessary elements, it is also necessary to properly prepare the tackle for fishing. One of the main stages of preparation is setting up the spinning reel. If this is taken lightly, then fishing will not bring the desired pleasure and will not give the desired result. The process of catching will be much more difficult than we would like. Therefore, after purchasing it, it is better to read the setup instructions or ask experienced anglers about it.

Installing a reel on a rod

How to install a reel on a rod

First of all, after acquiring a reel, it must be installed on a spinning rod. It is not difficult to do this, and even a beginner who has never had anything to do with fishing will cope with the task.

The installation order is:

1. The mount is unscrewed;
2. The coil is inserted into the holder on the blank handle;
3. The ring is tightened, as a result of which the base of the coil should be clamped.

You need to tighten the fastener tightly, but not too much. If you overdo it, the thread may break. During fishing, the holder may loosen slightly, so it is recommended to constantly monitor this moment and, if necessary, re-tighten the fasteners.

Winding line on a spool

How to wind a fishing line

The next step is winding the line onto the spool. It is important to perform all actions correctly so that in the future the tackle does not fail when playing the prey.

The winding of the fishing line is carried out in the following order:

1. First you need to stretch the fishing line through the access rings on the spinning rod. You need to start from the tip of the rod and stretch it from the smallest ring to the largest;
2. When the fishing line is passed through the last ring, it must be tied to the reel. To do this, you need to take the shackle of the line laying machine and, using a self-tightening knot, tie it to the spool. The strength of such a knot is very large, and under loads it will tighten even more. After tying, the protruding end is cut off;
3. Now you can proceed directly to winding the line on the spool. It is better to do this with a partner, but if no one was around, you can handle it yourself. To do this, you can put the skein in your pocket, and skip the fishing line between the fingers of the hand that holds the spinning. The second hand will rotate the handle of the reel. During winding, the fishing line should be in a state of slight tension. You should not hold it too tightly, as this can cause tangles, knots, or uneven winding. During the process itself, it is recommended not to stop and constantly monitor it;
4. When about 1.5-2 mm remains from the fishing line to the edges of the spool, winding should be stopped. This distance is considered optimal and safe. If there is more line, it can slip off the reel, and if less, it will rub against the sides during casting, which will negatively affect the unwinding and flight range of the bait. In addition, tangles and knots can form.

It is recommended to do a blank cast after fishing. This will help to dry the fishing line and wind it on the spool with high quality. When the bait is in the water, the rod must be placed perpendicular to the ground and slowly rotate the handle until the line is completely reeled.

This winding method is just one of many. Now there are special devices designed to facilitate the winding process, but if this is not planned to be done constantly, then its acquisition will not make sense.

It is also possible to perform this process without placing the reel on the spinning rod. In this case, the cord is first wound around it, after which, in the finished state, the coil is installed in its rightful place.

Friction setting

Adjusting the spinning reel plays no less important role than the previous steps. When performed correctly, the risk of breaking the line or breaking the rod during the load is minimized. It will also be much easier to deal with large specimens of predatory fish.

With a properly adjusted friction clutch, the line under heavy loads will be gradually etched from the spool. Thanks to this, strong jerks of the fish will be extinguished by the reel. The fisherman will spend less force to fight, and the risk of damage to the gear will be minimized.

The clutch can be front or rear. In new models, the first option is predominantly used.

It must be adjusted so that it can withstand a slightly lower load than the fishing line. For example, if the line breaking strength is 7 kg, then the drag should be set to approximately 5 kg. So, during the struggle with a 7-kilogram individual, the fishing line will be let in during jerks, and as a result, it will succumb to less load.

Most often, to adjust the friction clutch, weights of a certain weight are used, which cling to the end of the cord. Experienced fishermen do it in a different way, being directly on the pond.

To make the adjustment, the tackle is fully brought into working condition. With the help of the hook of the bait, the fishing line clings to a stationary object, such as a tree.

Then, from the place of the hook, you should move away a little and take a position, as when playing large prey. When the rod is bent and the line is as tight as possible, the friction clutch is released to the ratchet. After that, the adjustment can be considered complete.

It is important not to load it too much when pulling the line, otherwise it may come off and the spinning break. In this case, instead of fish, you can only get broken tackle.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in preparing tackle for fishing. The main thing is to read the recommendations before setting up the spinning reel in order to do everything efficiently and not damage the gear components.

Lever serves to make it more convenient to hold the rod and control it. The handle made of cork cylindrical rings is considered the best. Lubricated with skin glue or casein glue, rods tightly put on the butt, they form a solid cylinder with a diameter of 30–35 mm. After processing, the diameter of the handle is made no more than 25–28 mm. Handle length for one-handed rods is 300-350 mm, for two-handed - 550–700 mm. The holes in the plugs are cut with a thin-walled metal tube with sharp edges. The ends of the handle are framed with conical metal rings or plastic end caps. The shape of the handles is different (Fig. 55).

Wooden handles are heavy, do not bend, and therefore unsuitable. The rubber handles are also heavy, slip in the hands when wet and cool the hands greatly. A good handle is obtained from crumbs, it can be filed with a rasp from any small plugs. The butt of the rod is thickly smeared with casein glue, wrapped tightly in 2 layers (crosswise) with a bandage and again lightly smeared with glue. Until it dries up, the butt is rolled (like a rolling pin) over sawdust. Having built up the first layer, let it dry. Then again lubricate and build up the second layer. The operation is repeated until the handle of the required thickness is obtained. After stripping, it is covered with waterproof glue or varnish.

Fungus made of rubber and attached to the end of the handle. When casting, it prevents the rod from slipping out of the hands, and when the butt rests on the angler's body, it softens the pressure. Fungus dol-Women tightly close the end part of the butt of the rod from moisture penetration. The simplest fungus consists of rubber with a metal cross pressed into it, with a welded screw, which is screwed into the butt of the rod into a pre-prepared hole - otherwise the rod can be split (Fig. 56, a).

It is much better when, instead of a screw, a short screw is welded to the cross, which is screwed into the metal bottom of the tube with a threaded hole. The tube is tightly planted on the butt of the rod, a metal end cap is placed on the cork layer (Fig. 56, 6).

reel seats used to attach the reel to the handle of the rod. They are mobile, allowing you to mount the coil anywhere (see Fig. 55, a, d) and built into the handle, with a fixed coil attachment point (see fig. 55, b, c). The simplest mobile reel seats are two metal rings, similar to a truncated cone, in which the diameter of one base is 1.5–2 more than the other. mm. The smaller diameter is taken according to the diameter of the handle. The rings are pushed with the extended side onto the legs of the coil and tightly clamped.

Sometimes, instead of conical rings, cylindrical rings that move tightly along the handle with protruding sockets for the coil legs are used. For tight tightening of the legs, the rings must be springy, so it is better to make them from thin hard-worked brass with a wall thickness of not more than 0.6 mm.

The coil is even more securely fastened when one of the holders is made with a screw clamp, and the other is cylindrical with a socket (see Fig. 55, e).

Access rings should be light, strong, abrasion resistant, polished. Agate in a metal frame and steel chrome are considered the best. The frame of the end ring is best made in the form of a "tulip". This form prevents the fishing line from overflowing over the end of the rod (Fig. 57).

For fishing with an inertial reel, a set of rings with an inner diameter of 5 to 10 is used. mm. They are placed on the rod in order of decreasing diameter from the butt to the end. The diameter of the end ring is taken at 0.5–1 mm larger than the diameter of the previous ring. To attach the rings to the rod, a wire bridge frame with paws is used, which are threaded to the rod. The height of the centers of the through-rings is regulated by the height of the bridge frame.

The diameter of the rings for fishing with an inertialess reel is selected depending on the length of the rod and the diameter of the reel spool (Fig. 58). The first 2–3 rings from the coil are quite large (diameter 30–40 mm), therefore, it is more convenient to make them removable or folding.

On a one-handed rod, no more than four rings are placed, on a two-handed rod - no more than five.

Rice. 57. End (left) and throughput rings:

a, b- for rods with inertial reel; c, g - for rods with spinning reels.

For a more even distribution of the load along the entire length of the rod, the distance between the guides is gradually increased from the end to the butt. Approximately when installing five rings, the distance from the end ring to each subsequent ring is as follows: 10, 22, 40, 62% of the rod length; when installing four rings - 15, 35, 62%. For a more accurate arrangement of the rings, they do this: a fishing line is tied to the handle of the rod, passed through the end ring, and in places tentatively marked for the installation of the rings, the fishing line is wound to the rod with several turns of thread so that the loops (turns) can be moved along the Axis.

Rice. 58. Diameters of through-rings for freewheel coil(lie in the sector ABS).

Then the rod is fixed at an angle of 30–45 ° to the horizontal. A weight is suspended from the end of the fishing line, capable of bending the rod so that its end is flush with the butt. The loops are moved and set so that the maximum distance from the fishing line to the rod in the intervals between all the loops is the same. Then they mark the place of installation of the loops, remove the load and put rings on the marked places and wind them to the rod with threads (Fig. 59).

Types and models of rods. There are two types of rods: one-handed - for casting bait with one hand and two-handed - for casting with two hands. Single-handed rod length 1.5–2.1 m, weight 200–350 g; two-handed length 2.7–3.5 m, weight 550–750 G.

Single-handed rods are used for fishing from a boat or where it is inconvenient to use two-handed rods due to their large length.

For catching big fish or fishing With the coast is more convenient enjoy two-handed rod. The length of the rod is selected taking into account the height of your height, physical abilities and sometimes just taste. There are various models of rods, each of them has its own purpose. It is impossible to design any one model that is equally suitable for all cases of fishing. The so-called universal rods with a different set of knees for fishing do not give good results. different ways fishing.

Rice. 59. Arrangement of rings on the rod. Rings in dots 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.

The Saturn plant of the Moscow Fisher-Sportsman Society produces the following rods:

Glued one-handed single glued hexagonal, bamboo, two elbows, with rubber handle, rubber fungus and steel rings for the inertial reel. Length 1.65 m; diameters of the upper knee (between the faces) - 3.8 and 8 mm, lower diameters - 9.5 and 13.6 mm. Due to the large transition of the sections at the junction (from 8 to 9.5 mm) The lower knee doesn't flex at all. Has overestimated sections, so rough.

One-handed non-glued made of bamboo, one-piece (not split), with a wooden handle and a rubber fungus; porcelain rings. Length 1.65 - 1.7 m. Disadvantages: wooden handle and low elasticity.

Glued two-handed single glued hexagon, made of bamboo, of two bends, with rubber handle, rubber mushroom, both with steel and porcelain rings for the inertial reel. Length 2.87 m; diameters of the upper knee - 4.5 and 11 mm, lower - 12.5 and 18 mm; weight - 520 G. The shape is not quite conical, the upper knee has a run of 4.5 Mmm, lower - 3.8 Mmm. Large transition of sections at the junction (1.5 mm) it is compensated by a decrease in the run-off at the lower knee, i.e. the butt knee has a smaller taper than the top, due to which the rod bends along its entire length and the action is quite successful. The material, unfortunately, does not have sufficient elasticity.

In addition to single glue rods, the Saturn plant produces double-layer glue rods (double-glue). They are more resilient and therefore more powerful (see table 4, p. 77).

The factory "Voyenohot No. 1" produces rods mainly from fiberglass. For comparison and analysis, we present the characteristics of a bamboo glued rod from the series previously released by the plant.

Glued two-handed hexagon single glued, two elbows, with cork handle and rubber fungus, porcelain or steel rings. Length - 2.83 m; upper elbow diameters 4.5 and 12 mm, lower - 13 and 18 mm; weight - 680 G. The upper knee has a run of 5.3 Mmm, lower - 3.5 Mmm. The principle of construction of the rod is the same as that produced by the Saturn plant, but due to the unsuccessful distribution of the material, the upper knee turned out to be very heavy, and the lower knee was too weak. As a result, the rod is unmanageable, blunt and rough. Weight was 160 G more than an equivalent rod manufactured by the Saturn factory.

One-handed fiberglass also from the Voenohot No. 1 plant, two-knee, with a cork handle, a reel seat with a screw clamp, with a permanent coil attachment point. Length 1.65 m; diameters of the upper knee - 2.8 and 7 mm, lower - 8 and 10 mm; weight - 280 G. The action of the rod is good, the bend curve is close to ideal; the rod is flexible, strong and resilient (see its dimensions in Fig. 49). It is suitable for fishing with any reel.

One-handed fiberglass with cork handle, collet chuck and two whips of different lengths, inserted as desired. Length of the first whip 1.18 m with end diameters 3.5 and 10 mm, length of the second 1.3 m with end diameters 3,4 and 10 mm. The shape is conical, the escape at the first whip is 5.5 Mmm, the second - 4.9 Mmm. The length of the rod with the handle, respectively - 1.59 and 1.71 m, weight - 315 and 342 G. The rod is good, but harsh. I would like this rod to be more flexible, as it is mainly designed for a spinning reel.

Two-handed, fiberglass two-knee, with a handle made of cork chips, with movable reel seats, with rings for a spinning reel. Length 2.73 m; upper elbow diameters 4,4 and 11 mm, butt - 12; 2 and 14.3 mm(the handle is almost cylindrical). Runaway at the top knee 5 Mmm, at the butt - 2.8 Mmm; weight 632 G. The rod is too powerful and heavy. With the same length, I would like to see a model of a lightweight type without the transition of sections. If you use a shaped tube, then the action of the rod will improve.

The latest models of fiberglass spinning rods are hollow. With a good system, they meet all the requirements.

The Kryukov Experimental Plant has mastered the production of one-handed hollow two-knee fiberglass rods for inertial reels. Rod length 1.96 m, tip diameter 3.8 mm, butt - 12.6 mm, drive 4.5 Mmm, weight 400 G. The handle is wooden, heavy. If you lighten the handle and put through rings for inertialess reels, it will be lighter and better.

A good example of hollow rods is the model of the Fiwa brand, produced in the GDR. The one-handed two-knee rod has a shaped connecting tube. Its length is 2.15 m, weight 225 G(see fig. 50 for dimensions). The rod is quite rigid, designed for throwing sinkers weighing 20–22 G.

Swedish one-handed rod "Record" 1.57 long m has a comfortable saddle-shaped handle for closed-type inertia-free reels, two-knee, designed for throwing sinkers weighing 12–15 G. Saddle handles are also desirable for our rods.

An example of an excellent system is the Murdoch model of the English firm Hardy. The rod is made of glued bamboo, three-legged, with agate rings for inertial reels. The connecting tubes have a shank and a screw lock. The company produces three types of rods: light, medium and heavy. The build is the same for everyone, the power is different. Length from 3.05 to 3.65 m. The rods have a perfect bend curve, are resilient and durable. Of the one-handed rods, the most successful is the Viktor model (of different lengths and power) from the same company.

In table. 4 shows the characteristics of the action of rods based on bending curves.

Rod selection. When choosing a rod, take it by the butt and press the end of the top to the ceiling or wall at an angle of 30–40 °. By pressing on the butt and bending the rod, its stiffness and elasticity are determined by feeling. At the same time, the shape of the bend is also monitored. It should be uniform and smooth from end to handle. Sharp bends indicate weak spots, and straight sections - for excessive roughness. A good rod after a bend should straighten out without leaving any curvature.

With light shaking of the rod by the butt, the vibration determines the approximate rigidity and flexibility of the rod.

The dark yellow color of the rod indicates the maturity of the bamboo, green indicates its immaturity.

For split rods, the connection in the tubes is checked. The inner diameter of the tube should correspond to the diameter of the rod or be slightly larger than it, but not less. At the junction points, the connection must be tight, strong and not violating the straightness of the rod at any angle of rotation of the countertube; the ends of the yolen should converge tightly, leaving no void in the tube. A bad connection is easy to detect by gently rocking the rod from side to side, if a small weight is tied to the end of it (5–7 G).

At a glued rod, the density of gluing the sectors is checked: if it is good, the seams are almost invisible. The strength of the bonding is checked by lightly and carefully twisting the rod with your hands (strong twisting can break any rod). In case of poor gluing, the rod cracks and sticks at the seams, and when glued, it easily twists. Bamboo knots on sectors should not be concentrated on faces in one place.

Lacquering - even, smooth, without smudges, stains And bubbles - necessary for all rods; all metal parts must have an anti-corrosion coating, preferably matte, without gloss (on- t example, oxidation).

O-rings should be well polished And are located in a straight line.

Coil. The spinning reel must hold at least 100 m fishing line. This length is necessary for maneuvering while playing large fish. Coils are of two types: inertial And inertialess. For inertial k-spools, when casting the fishing line, the drum rotates, for inertialess ones, the drum does not rotate; the fishing line comes off the end of the bobbin without overcoming the inertia of the mass. General form inertial coil shown in Fig. 60. It consists of a body in the form of a round cover, in the center of which an axis is fixed, on which, by means of bushings a rotating drum (bobbin) with handles for winding fishing line is mounted. A stand (leg) with paws for attaching the reel to the rod is riveted to the body.

Note. All rods with good action are cone-parabolic or close to it.

The requirements for the coil are as follows. The outer diameter of the drum should be about 90 - 120 mm, winding diameter 70 - 100 mm, width between cheeks 20–25 mm. Reels of smaller diameters are not suitable for spinning fishing. The lower the weight of the drum, the easier its course, the less will be its inertia, and the further the cast. The weight of the drum is lightened by using a lighter but durable metal(duralumin), a decrease in the thickness of the cheeks (up to 0.8 mm), drilling holes along the periphery of the cheeks - in this way the weight is adjusted to 50–80 G. Holes located closer to the center reduce the inertia of the drum a little, but they must be made to create air (automatic) braking of the drum. In this case, the drum must be rigid and durable.

Rice. 60. Inertial coil. General form.

Fig 61. Various devices of the undercarriage of inertial coils:

A- on a cylindrical axis, b - on cones, V - on ball bearings,

The ease of movement of the drum is achieved by careful polishing of the rubbing parts, their lubrication, selection of material with the lowest coefficient of friction (steel axle) and a more advanced design of the running gear (Fig.-61). It should not have any longitudinal or transverse play, i.e., not have large gaps between the axle and the sleeve and between the sleeve and the thrust (end) nut. To eliminate transverse play, the axle is carefully adjusted to the hub, and to avoid longitudinal play, adjustable stop screws or flare nuts with a conventional lock nut are used.

The drum must be in good balance and rotate without beating. Balancing of the drums assembled on the ground is achieved by the accuracy of the marking and subsequent sizing or the use of solid-turned drums. The disadvantage of the latter is their considerable weight, and thin and light drums break upon impact. These shortcomings do not happen only if the material is strong and elastic. Stamped from sheet material, assembled on spokes and well balanced coils are very light and reliable in operation.

How to attach the reel Some of today's rod tackle involves the use of a rod-reel pair. The practicality of managing all gear, and, consequently, the success of fishing itself, depends on how stably and thoroughly these elements are connected. In this topic, we will talk about how to fix the reel on the rod so that it holds securely.

More often on rods of various types, screw reel seats can be seen. Their mechanism is simple and quite reliable, but at the same time they differ in the location of the running nut, which presses the profile ring, which holds the coil foot on one side.

Its “lower” location is recognized as classic, when the nut is located on the tube of the reel seat closer to the butt of the rod. Most of the rods of American and European manufacturers, which are designed for spinning, feeder and match gear with a spinning reel, have this particular reel seat design.

Japanese rod manufacturers often prefer the original bright design and put on the same rods more ergonomic reel seats that take into account the anatomy of the human hand. In these designs, the running nut is placed in front. The principle of fastening the reel in both designs is the same, but when used with a rod paired with a reel, the “classic” is somewhat inferior in terms of convenience to “ergonomics”. This is especially true for rods that are constantly held in the hand during fishing: spinning rods, partly match rods, and somewhat less often feeder rods, which are even more often on stands, just like carp rods.

With the right grip of the rod by hand, the stand of the inertialess reel passes between the index and middle fingers (sometimes in front of the index). Therefore, almost the entire “classic” reel seat lies in the palm of your hand, and its ribbed nut either rests on the edge of the palm or is covered by the little finger.

This does not cause any particular inconvenience - millions of anglers quickly get used to such a grip. But with all the manipulations with the rod - casting, hooking, and especially when guiding the bait and playing the fish - the running nut inevitably weakens a little and the reel begins to "walk" on the seat.

By itself, this "sin" is not too great, but the constant tightening of the running nut is unnerving, distracting from the fishing process, and in some cases can lead to failure of the reel seat. Designs with a front nut, which is often set in a noble cork or practical neoprene, are less subject to arbitrary unscrewing, since during the operation of the rod the palm and fingers of the hand holding it do not touch this part.

But even in them, with significant backlashes on the threads of plastic (as a rule) parts, the coil fastening sometimes loosens. Excessively strong tightening of the nut in both designs of the reel seat not only does not help, but threatens:

Thread breakage on parts;
jamming of the fixing ring on the foot of the coil;
cracking of the nut frame made of natural cork.
The consequence of this is the cessation of fishing and the subsequent difficult repair of the ENTIRE rod. All this can be prevented or minimized by using the little tricks below.

1. It is advisable to wrap the running nut of the “classic” layout after installing the coil with a tape of medical adhesive plaster 18 mm wide. By grabbing the nut with a part of the thread on the reel seat tube with a plaster, you will immediately free yourself from both its self-loosening and scuffs in the palm of your hand. It is especially convenient to make such a winding if the coil for a long time stays on the rod, for example when fishing on vacation. Unlike PVC electrical tape, the adhesive from the patch is simply removed with ordinary vodka.

2. Often, too much play is made by the self-loosening factor between the lead nut and the reel seat tube. This can be eliminated if a narrow thin tape is screwed directly onto the thread of the tube in one layer. The winding must be laid with force so that the threads remain embossed, and only in the place where the nut will be after the coil is installed in place.

3. The main reason for the arbitrary unscrewing of the nut of a screw reel seat of any type is the absence of an elastic element in the system. This can be easily remedied by putting appropriately sized pieces of PVC cambric or (better) heat shrink tubing on the ends of the coil foot. The easiest way to squeeze it in the shape of a paw is by dipping it in boiling water. After such an operation, the coil is very tightly in place, and its branded very beautiful coating will not be scratched even by all-metal clamping rings.

4. Sometimes the fly reel during fishing begins to hang out in the reel seat, especially if its foot is adjacent not to a rigid tube, but to a fragile insert made of natural cork. This is fraught with scuffs on the cork and squeezing its surface, which greatly weakens the fastening of the reel and spoils the expensive rod. And here the band-aid tape will help out. Stick it directly on the cork under the foot of the coil - the fastening will be much better, and the cork insert will retain its original appearance longer. The same help can be given to spinning rods of the “light” class, which usually have the same cork insert in the reel seat.

5. If the coil is wedged between the mounting rings, and the nut does not turn away, you should not apply excessive force, all the more so to grab fragile plastic of various kinds with passion with improvised "grabbers" - pliers, pliers, etc.

Just drop a little clean kerosene (in the field - vodka) into the thread and onto the foot of the coil and after 3-5 minutes, grabbing the nut tightly with a hand in a rubber glove, unscrew it with not very much effort. After that, wipe all the parts with a clean rag and put the rod and .

6. As a preventive measure against jamming of the reel, always after fishing, remove from its foot and from the reel seat (especially carefully - from the thread) blockages that inevitably form during fishing. Fish slime, bait particles and baits magically attract sand, which is able to abrade the threads on plastic and metal parts of the reel seat in less than one season. And changing it is quite troublesome and expensive. Sincerely yours

Whatever the purpose of fishing, the main thing in it is the catch, and in order for it to be successful, you need to know well how to assemble a fishing rod with a reel. The scheme for performing this work is simple, but only knowing it, you can succeed in fishing. People fell in love with fishing back in stone times, when every person was a getter, and the main goal of such an activity was to bring a catch to the house. However, now spending time near a pond with fishing rods for some is an opportunity to relax, for others it is a sport or a hobby.

A properly assembled fishing rod is the key to a good catch.

The classic version of the fishing rod consists of the following components:

• rods;
• coils;
• cargo;
• fishing line;
• hook;
• float.

Some fishermen save on the purchase of a reel, replacing it with a reel. However, in the modern market there are so many such goods and at a variety of prices that anyone can find tackle on their own pocket. All the necessary equipment must be purchased before you properly assemble the fishing rod.

The following types of rods are used to assemble reel fishing rods:

1. A fly-type rod used in small ponds.
2. Bologna-type rod, the most comfortable for beginners.
3. A match type rod designed for long distance casting.
4. Plug type rod.

Coils can be inertial or non-inertial. The first type is the budget version and is more suitable for fishing over cliffs, and not for casting into the distance.

The most important thing when using an inertial reel is not to forget to snap the latch, because otherwise tangling of the fishing line is inevitable.

The second type of coils is great for casting over long distances. They are suitable for various kinds rods and spinning rods and have many additional features that make fishing easier.

Reel rods are more practical and fun to use because they are not limited in how far you can cast the bait. We will assemble the rod correctly if it has several access rings so that the fishing line can pass through them.

To assemble a float rod with a reel, you must follow these steps:

1. When a rod is selected, the reel is attached to it first. Usually, it has a built-in holder for this, if the rod is not homemade, but purchased. And in the case when it is made by hand, the coil is mounted with glue or electrical tape. There are no strict rules about how far from the end of the rod to attach the reel. Each fisherman determines a place for her according to his preferences.
2. The next step is to wind the line onto the spool by removing the wound line from the spool and placing it on the spool.
3. Then the fishing line is threaded through all the access rings, starting from the lowest and ending with the top.
4. The fishing line is equipped with a float and a sinker. For the convenience of this step, most floats are equipped with special mounts. In this case, the main thing is not to tie it too tight, because it should be easily regulated, while not slipping when casting.
5. The sinker must be chosen depending on the preferences of the fisherman and the characteristics of the reservoir. If there is a strong current in the river, you should not mount a large load, because then the float will sink under the waves. Sinkers for float rods are made from lead.
6. The final stage- tying a hook. This step is performed using one of the special fishing knots which are simple and reliable.

Consultants from a specialized store can get more information on how to assemble a fishing rod with a reel. Schemes and additional instructions are also provided separately for each fishing product.