Skiing does not require special and long-term training, it is available to almost everyone (from a child to an elderly person).
This is a great way to prevent many diseases and promote health.
Skiing will strengthen the cardiovascular and respiratory system, will give the necessary load to almost all muscle groups and help to lose excess weight. In addition, skiing strengthens nervous system, promotes psychological relief. To enjoy riding, you need the right Sports Equipment: skis, sticks, boots.
How to choose skis
If you are thinking about whether to buy or rent skis, know that learning to ski on your own is much easier, because you get used to the equipment pretty quickly. If you rent new skis every time, the training will be longer and more difficult.How to choose skis?
When choosing skis, the emphasis should be on the amount of money that you are willing to spend on them. The price depends not only on the material from which the skis are made, but also on the use of new technologies in their production. Companies such as "Elan" and "Pale", for example, are very expensive and will certainly set you apart from other skiers. Cheaper, domestic options do not look so advantageous, but they fully cope with their functions.
In no case should you save on a purchase. The higher the technical class of skis, the better and more comfortable they are, so outdated options for alpine skiing will not suit you.
All skis are divided into soft, medium and hard. Also, skis vary depending on the sport and type of trails.
Beginners should choose soft skis, they will help to keep on the turns correctly, ride both on virgin soil and on soft snow. However, such skis are not very comfortable on ice, when skiing at high speed, on a track full of bumps.
It is better not to take medium hard and hard skis for a beginner. They are designed for fast descents and sharp turns.
When choosing skis, it is very important to choose the right size for them. In this case, you should take into account not only your height, but also your weight.
How to choose skis by height
When choosing skis for height, you should focus on your physical fitness.So, if your physical data is far from perfect, you are not confident in yourself, then it is better to choose skis whose length is 20 centimeters less than your height. For a more advanced skier who is improving his skills, skis should be chosen 10 centimeters shorter than height, for professionals, the length of skis can match or exceed their height.
Women should choose either special skis for the fair sex, or shorter than the above calculated data by another five centimeters.
For people of a very large build, the length of the selected skis should be increased by at least 5 centimeters.
IN Lately there are practically no traditional wooden skis on sale. They are quite expensive, and caring for them is quite difficult. Gaining more and more popularity plastic skis.
When choosing plastic skis, the main criterion is the weight of the skier. The reason for this is simple - they are very slippery and for classic movement they need a holding ointment that will help the skis stick to the snow during the push.
How to choose plastic skis? First you need to put the ski on the edge of the ruler and find the center of gravity, moving back and forth. Mark the found place with a pencil.
Then the skis should be put on the floor or any other flat surface and stand on them so that the nose of the ski boot is next to the marked center of gravity. In this case, the body weight should be evenly distributed on two skis.
After that, it is worth inserting a sheet of paper into the gap between the skis and the feet and moving it back and forth along the ski. It must move at least thirty centimeters in both directions.
After the manipulations done, the body weight should be transferred to one leg. At the same time, the ski should clamp the paper sheet. If the paper sheet can still be moved while standing on it, then your skis are great. If you stand on two legs, and the sheet of paper moves with difficulty, then the skis are small on you.
When choosing skis, it should be borne in mind that they differ significantly for mountain and cross-country skiing.
How to choose skiing
The choice of alpine skis for beginners and progressives is significantly different from professional models. They are specially designed for ease of learning, forgiving some mistakes in skiing, do not require perfect skiing technique.In addition, all skiing are divided by skiing classes into karting (for skiing on prepared slopes), universal (for skiing in places without special tracks), skis for big sport. Kart skis should be 20 centimeters shorter than you, they are not suitable for skiing in deep snow. The choice of skis for the universal type of skiing is made according to the standard ski selection scheme.
Choosing skis
In any case, the choice should be stopped on a wider version of the ski, which provides a stable speed of descent and stability on the track.
How to choose cross-country skis
Choosing cross-country skiing it should be borne in mind that there is a classic, skating and combined style of cross-country skiing. Cross-country skiing should begin with classic move.When choosing skis for a classic course on a good track, you should take into account that their length should exceed your height by no more than 20 - 30 centimeters, and even less for beginners. For skating, skis 10 to 15 centimeters longer than you are suitable. On a soft track, skis should be taken longer (15 or 20 centimeters taller).
How to choose ski poles
Like choosing any other ski equipment, the choice of ski poles is very important.Ski poles consist of a handle, a shaft, a hand loop, a tip and a foot. The materials from which the sticks are made also vary. Aluminum sticks are quite suitable for an amateur.
For a more stable ride, a beginner should choose a shaft that is narrowed down. In this case, the center of gravity will shift upward.
The required length of the pole will directly depend on the style of skating: for classic skating, you should choose poles 25 or 30 centimeters lower than your height, for skating, the difference with height should be about 15 - 20 centimeters.
When choosing a pen, you should focus on convenience. Non-slip materials (leather or cork) are much more comfortable than plastic. Top part handles should be wide - this makes it easier to rely on sticks. There are also anatomical handles with recesses for the fingers, they are very comfortable.
During the movement, the skier's hand should rest on the loop, and not on the handle. Therefore, sticks should be "try on". To do this, it must be placed vertically, pressing the elbow to it. In this case, the angle between the shoulder and forearm should be 90 degrees (plus or minus two centimeters).
It is desirable that the diameter of the stick is 6 - 8 centimeters. In this case, it will be possible to ride on any type of snow.
The tip of the stick is better to choose with a reverse cone (it is the safest), and for icy slopes, the tip "ice crown" is perfect.
Ski clothing
Your comfort, safety and, of course, your health will depend on choosing the right ski clothing. Clothing should be light, loose, elastic, layered, non-slippery and very warm.Choosing clothes for skiing
All materials must be windproof and waterproof. An ideal option would be a specialized suit made of fleece (or other synthetic material) and membrane fabric with a hood. It is advisable to use thermal underwear that removes moisture from the body.
The trousers of the suit should be with elastic bands at the bottom so that snow does not get under them and the wind does not blow. You can use special pads on the elbows and knees, which will make the suit more durable. In order not to get lost against the backdrop of snow, it is better to stop your choice on suits of bright colors with reflective elements. This is especially true for skiing.
When choosing gloves, preference should be given to leather options or products made of high-quality synthetic material with good insulation.
Wear a warm, tight-fitting hat on your head. Socks should be strong, high (end above the shoes), fit the leg well.
As you can see, choosing skis is not such an easy task. The selection of each of the components of the equipment does not tolerate haste. When choosing skis and poles for them, you should always think about the future: do you want to become a professional, or will you ride for pleasure all your life. Also pay attention to whether you plan to ride on mountain slopes or ride on flat terrain.
Still plastic...
First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in ski construction). A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - on pieces of wood I would have left for N kilometers long ago, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially disappointing if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons into a humiliating crawl for him, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skis can be avoided, but we'll talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.
Start with the classics
When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you ski at and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different equipment. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness as optimal for a classic move, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually skinned. Skate shoes require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And for classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If then a holding ointment is applied to this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible. (But at the same time, you should not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).
Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many more places to ride. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid along difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can “get up” after the second or third ascent. And you can’t drag your family along such a highway with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skate track near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case skate style definitely worth a try.)
What skis to choose for a beginner?
First, about prices. Racing skis that stand at the top of the range of well-known brands such as Fischer, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones like STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost around 70-100 dollars. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You will be able to keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training then you will understand what you need and where to go. The exception is if you big weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them suitable for your weight. Here you have to move to a different price range, and choose mass models of famous brands. We will return to this issue below.
What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models of well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. These skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are made in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. Before being put into production, new developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows you to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine " skiing"No. 17, 10 and other numbers. Nevertheless, manufacturers earn the main money on skis for the mass market, which are required much more than for elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's give an analogy with computer technology. It's no secret that components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly made in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. trademarks it is more profitable to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to engage in the development of skis and the production of top models. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of various brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive ski poles Madshus and Karhu. And own skis and sticks under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and lower price.
Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass, designed for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are incompatible, such as the weight of the ski and their rigidity. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder in the process of sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to stick for a long time. long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and course preparation place different demands on skis. Therefore, in the world of racing skis, specialization is common, which allows you to achieve the best glide in certain conditions, but at the same time forces you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft slopes, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, because the skis are produced for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling during fast gliding on descents and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars, allowing you to quickly and comfortably ride on various roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes to competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a host of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis show their exceptional qualities best on specially prepared tracks. Just as it is difficult to imagine racing a McLaren along the roads near Moscow, so you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.
Amateur (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not stay on the ski for so long. But it does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmin "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of skis and the last 20% are determined by ski lubrication. Therefore, having successfully selected skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.
Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will remain with you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.
There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to hold up well in soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often believe, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not advise such, unless you really don’t want to mess with lubrication at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on medium-soft tracks, but not on packed hard (or icy) or loose tracks. And ordinary skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out, and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking notched skis is a matter of taste.
wooden skis
As we discussed in the previous article, the very first skis were made of wood. And oddly enough, wooden skis are used to this day. The manufacturing technique has changed, but the principle remains the same. wooden skis are made from several glued layers and less often from a whole array (bar) of wood.
Wooden skis are tarred once a season, and before skiing they are lubricated with a whole ski ointment, while usually colder ointment is put on the ends of the skis (toe and heel), and on the block (the middle part of the ski, located in the area ski binding) - warmer so that the ski can be pushed. In positive weather, wooden skis, especially poorly tarred ones, get very wet and swell, their glide deteriorates sharply. In general, the recoil (slip back) of wooden skis is much less than that of plastic ones, one of the reasons for this is the “ruffle” of the wood fibers. Switching to much more slippery plastic skis can create a certain problem for a person who is used to the classic move on wooden skis, but this is solved by using paraffins for plastic skis, more on that in other articles.
Wooden skis in our time are used mainly for hunting, and of course for walking along the track. For hunting, wide wooden skis are used, since they slip less, a large area of \u200b\u200bsupport, which is very important. On cross-country wooden skis, they ride in village schools, according to my observations, almost all ski resorts and schools in the city have completely switched to plastic. Our grandparents or those who inherited these skis also use wooden skis, and as usual, they report undeniable advantages, although the evolution in the ski world is not in doubt.
Wooden skis are exclusively for classic skiing. When skating, a completely different technique of movement is simply not possible on wooden skis and on bindings with boots that are attached to a wooden pair.
One of the niches in which the production of wooden skis goes is the production of exclusive and souvenir skis (mainly self made). They are used for their intended purpose (for hunting), and as a home decoration, and as an expensive, memorable souvenir from Finland, for example.
Wooden skis with plastic coating
With the beginning of the development of skiing and the technical revolution at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries, skis have changed. In addition to changing proportions, they began to be made from several parts, machines began to be used for their manufacture, and ski factories appeared. This state of affairs persisted until the advent of plastic materials, or plastics.
Some plastic materials have properties that are useful for skis - they do not get wet, snow does not stick to them, and glide is better. This is how plastic-coated skis first appeared, then all-plastic skis.
The big disadvantage of wooden skis with plastic coating is their weight. For a classic style, this is not very critical, but for skating a big problem.
At present, the internals of skis can be quite complex - the sports and sports equipment industry invests a lot of money in scientific research. Modern skis use different kinds plastic, wood, composite materials, alloys.
plastic skis
The appearance of new and new skis every year was inevitable. New materials appear, lighter, stronger, more slippery. Due to plastic and easily changeable materials, many types and varieties of skis have appeared, although if we recall earlier, some skis are wooden, one style is classic. With the evolution in the ski industry, the development of skiing was not long in coming.
notched skis
Notched plastic skis are skis with notches, hooks, serifs in the middle part of the ski in the area ski boot. The advantage of notched skis is that these skis do not require lubrication. The disadvantage is the fact that on a hard, icy track, such skis will not hold very well, they will give off slightly (“shoot”, as the skiers say) - that is, they will slip back. Nevertheless, such skis are extremely popular in the developed countries of Europe and America. Suffice it to say that approximately half of all skis sold in Western countries up to 2011 are notched skis. All notched skis are designed for classic skiing only.
Pros:
notched skis practically do not require holding ointment, and therefore are very convenient for inexperienced skiers who ski only occasionally and do not know how to apply ski ointments. Nevertheless, in difficult sliding conditions (plus temperature, icy ski tracks, etc.), the notches cannot cope with recoil, and holding ointment becomes necessary even on these skis.
Minuses:
notches impair sliding not only backwards, but also, although to a lesser extent, forward. Therefore, ceteris paribus, a skier on skis with notches will move more slowly than on smooth skis. That is why notched skis are not used in skiing.
Skis with a smooth surface
These skis are designed for both classic and skating. Skis are completely different in their structure. Shorter and almost not curved nose skating, and vice versa are longer and with a strongly curved nose classic skis. These differences are related to the technique of locomotion. Let's consider each option separately.
For classic style
Such skis have a smooth surface in the middle part (under the block), and in order to be able to move on such skis, they are lubricated in the middle part with ski hold ointment, which prevents the skis from slipping back when pushed. There are a huge number of ways and options for lubricating skis, depending on the weather and the skier's ambitions, but there are also several simple ways to lubricate skis aimed at beginner skiers. As a rule, it is quite enough for a beginner skier to have a simple set of three cans of ski wax for snow of different temperatures, a plastic scraper and cork, and grinding.
Classic skis have a stronger toe bend, so that at each step the nose does not cling to the track, since at the sliding stage, the ski with this curved end rests directly on the track, the smaller the bend, the more likely it is to catch. But as they said earlier, progress does not stand still, and due to the invention of coatings with much greater slip, the range of motion decreases, and there is no need for such a bend, the reduction of which allows you to reduce the weight of the ski. Therefore, modern skis are difficult to distinguish at first glance, if earlier even half a glance was enough. And yet the skis are completely different now.
For skate style
Skating style of movement requires a little more high level training compared to the classical style. It is no coincidence that most people skiing in the forest use the classic style of movement - it is simpler, more democratic, less demanding on the quality of preparation and width. ski run. At the same time, skating skis are shorter than classic ones, usually by 15-20 cm. Also on these skis, from the bottom, along the edges of the ski, an edge of 1-2 mm is made for a more stable ski run so that it does not slip to the side. If in the classical style the entire surface of the ski slides along the track, then the skating ski, ideally, should slide on the edge and, ideally, on the outside. It is in connection with this that such a bend in the nose of the ski is not needed.
3(4) more types of plastic skis
If you do not delve into the production technology, then skis can be divided into groups by price.
amateur
The cheapest price segment, in the city of Novosibirsk, the price will be from 1t to 3t rubles. These are the simplest and least costly skis (bindings not included). For this price you can buy classic skis (Classic), and universal skis (Combi). Due to the fact that only beginners choose this price category, there are no skis only for the skating style. Skating skis of this class are placed in the segment from 2.5t to 5t rubles. At the same time, there is no particular difference in them, maybe only in the bend of the toe of the ski. Outwardly, they practically do not differ from other skis, although in fact they are completely different.
Pros:
if you plan to do ski trips in the forest, then these skis will last you a very long time, and you will be very satisfied. Since they are strong, they do not break down so quickly, they are much easier to work with than with wooden ones, if only because of the bindings for boots that are not placed on wooden ones. But there is also a minus regarding wooden ones, in order to ride with pleasure they need to be periodically smeared, otherwise the ski will slip. And yet they are universal and you won’t pick up skis specifically for you, because they are all almost the same and there are no differences in ski stiffness.
Minuses:
there are much more cons, but if you are a beginner, you won’t even understand what in question. Skis in this category are heavy and more difficult to rearrange. Due to the cheap technology used in the manufacture of skis, plastic does not glide well and will quickly fail, with constant training. Therefore, even if these skis are waxed, since low-quality plastic paraffin is poorly absorbed and does not last long.
Middle price segment or "butor" in the store:
A very interesting segment of skiing. The price is from 4.5t to 12t rubles. The run is much longer, but in fact there is not much difference with the first economical segment. This includes skis of domestic production, despite the abundance of foreign brands. All skis are made in Russia and are also produced with inexpensive and high-quality technologies, but they are more beautiful, at first glance, higher quality. But this is only externally and that is what they are designed for. They are indeed a little better, but not that much. It is quite problematic to choose one for your height and weight, since they are very simple, so that during the manufacture they still lay different stiffness, which also affects driving characteristics. Pluses and minuses as well as in the first segment.
Another middle price segment (junior skis):
The price segment is the same, but the skis are much better and better than in the previous category, these skis are mainly used by beginners. Finding such skis in a regular store is very difficult. This class can already be attributed to professional skiing, it’s just that either girls or children ride on them. What is the difference? The difference from professional ones is that they are designed for a slightly lower speed. For people of less weight, but riding on sports tracks and in a sporty manner. They are softer (you won’t find hard ones), a platform for the boot shifted forward, there are no “gadgets” that are not of fundamental importance. In addition, the junior ski is more versatile than the original sports ski for the same reasons.
Professional skis
They don't need an introduction. Price from 12t. up to 50 thousand rubles. Top quality, skis are subjected to rigorous selection, each ski is matched with another identical ski, which is sometimes very difficult to do, and cases where a ski does not find a mate is no exception. A very wide range of different surfaces, ranging from different temperature weather, ending with different snow texture, at one time or another of the season, or the geographical location of the track. Of course, there is a choice in rigidity, it will not be difficult to choose skis for your weight, as well as for height. A large number of bells and whistles, vibration dampers, holes at the end of the ski (weight reduction, not for better streamlining as many people think), weight reduction due to super new materials and so on. Professionals have 7-15 pairs of professional skis, although outwardly they are almost identical, with the exception of small inscriptions. This is due to the fact that for each weather for each type of track (icy, only snowfall, etc.) there is a pair. And of course, due to the high quality of the coating, there is also a huge selection of paraffins, which allow you to more accurately prepare the skis for a particular track or distance.
Attention! It is also possible that skis from the 2nd price segment will fall into this price range, although the price will not be small (but not more than 25 thousand rubles). But the quality will be different, a kind of fake that someone does not hide. Therefore, you need to take skis in certain places and it is better with knowledgeable person. Read about it in a separate article.
Plastic skis are light, have greater elasticity and are many times stronger than wooden skis. The sliding surface of plastic skis is not destroyed by moisture, it holds lubricant well. Such skis can glide on snow without lubrication. Unlike wooden, plastic skis do not require periodic grinding. Their weight deflection is constant and struts are not required.
A feature of plastic skis is also that when sliding on both skis (as, for example, with a simultaneous stepless move), the cargo area does not press tightly against the track. This makes it possible to slide on the ends of the skis, lubricated with a well-gliding paraffin. Only with a sharp transfer of body weight to the ski does it press against the track and the skier can quickly push off the middle part of the ski. On plastic skis, it is more profitable to move at the same time.
The main advantage of plastic skis is manifested on a hard track and in a thaw. Under these conditions, wooden skis must be lubricated with special liquid ointments over the entire sliding surface. These ointments quickly become dirty or come off the surface of the ski, the sliding surface gets wet, and new lubricant does not fall on it. The skis begin to "dull", i.e., their gliding becomes bad, and the skier spends a lot of effort to maintain the desired speed.
Nothing like this is observed when using plastic skis. During a thaw, only a 25-30 cm area under the cargo area is lubricated with a liquid, “holding” ointment. The rest of the ski is covered with special paraffins that glide perfectly on wet tracks and practically do not get dirty. The glide quality of the skis remains almost unchanged throughout the entire distance.
Plastic skis, like wooden ones, are selected according to the height and weight of the skier. The selection in length is the same as for wooden skis. However, selection by weight is decisive here.
The easiest and most affordable way to select skis by weight is as follows. The skier places the skis on a flat surface or on the floor with the sliding surfaces down, about 30 cm apart. Stands on them so that the weight of the body is distributed evenly on both skis. A comrade helping to choose skis should stick a strip of thick paper into the gap between the ski and the floor. If the strip passes easily and moves freely back and forth for a distance of about 40-50 cm, then the ski stiffness is sufficient for your weight. If there is no gap and both skis lie tightly on the support, the skis are too soft for you.
For skis with suitable stiffness, elasticity should be checked. To do this, without removing the strips of paper from under the cargo area (under the mounting location), transfer your body weight to one ski. If at the same time the gap between the ski and the support disappears and the strip of paper is pressed against the ski - it is impossible to pull it out - the skis are elastic enough and quite suitable for your weight. If, despite the active transfer of weight to one ski, a strip of paper moves freely under it, the skis are too stiff for you.
Too soft skis will glide worse - you will press the cargo area too tightly against the snow. Too hard skis, on the contrary, will not let you press them tightly against the track and push off. These skis will always give back.
The sliding surface of new plastic skis should be scraped off with a smooth metal scraper and treated with fine sandpaper (zero) before going out on the snow. Wipe with a dry cloth or a cloth lightly dampened with turpentine. The middle part of the ski, under the cargo platform, is covered with ground paraffin 40-50 cm on both sides of the mounts.
The molten paraffin is applied (at t not higher than 200°C) to the specified area of the sliding surface of the ski in an even layer. After that, the ski is allowed to cool for 1.5-2 hours. Excess paraffin after cooling is carefully removed with a plastic cycle so that it remains only in the pores of the plastic surface of the ski. Wipe the skis with a piece of nylon fabric. Skis are ready for oiling.
With the advent of frost and snow, there comes a favorable time for winter sports. One of the most popular in our country is skiing. And if you have not yet bought skis for yourself or relatives, then this article will help you understand the main selection criteria.
Skiing is not only an ideal way to spend the weekend, but also a powerful cardio workout that involves absolutely all muscle groups. In just one hour of skiing, you can burn up to 700 calories (for comparison, you will use only 540 calories in an hour of running). And in order to make riding a pleasure, it is important to choose the right equipment - we will tell you about this now.
How modern cross-country skiing works
Each ski has a bottom and top surface, a core, ribs, a toe, a heel and a cargo area for a boot attachment device. The lower sliding surface is the working one. Depending on the weather, it must be treated with different ski waxes. One or more semicircular or trapezoidal grooves can be cut into it. On the upper surface there is a platform for mounting the mount. It is on it that your leg rests. The core is everything that is located between the sliding surface and the top cover. The core is responsible for the main characteristics of the ski: weight and stiffness.
The forefoot or toe has an outwardly curved shape that allows for easy gliding on the snow. The back or heel is thickened and reinforced with a glued-in wedge that is rounded to reduce drag. It also prevents ski splitting. The peculiarity of the structure of specifically cross-country skis is that they have a special weight deflection. When an athlete stands on them, they bend and evenly distribute body weight on a snowy base.
Why choose amateur models
Many amateur skis are suitable for both skating and classic skiing. And since this is likely your first pair, chances are you don't know exactly how you're going to run yet. Professional equipment is “sharpened” not only for a certain style, but also for the weight of the skier and even for specific snow qualities.
Skating skis are shorter and stiffer. The sticks for this style are longer than for the classics. As for the boots, they are noticeably stiffer and have additional lateral support. Accordingly, classic cross-country skis are longer and softer, their poles are shorter, and their boots are softer, like ordinary walking shoes.
How to choose the right width and length of skis
The quality of skiing, speed and comfort when running depend on the right size of skis. Skis for classic running are usually chosen according to the formula + 15-25 cm to the height of the skier. The heavier the athlete, the longer and harder he needs skis. Skis for combined skiing should be a little shorter, and if you are looking for a model for skating right away, the formula + 5-15 cm to height works here. As a rule, the longer the skis, the higher their rigidity. Thus, if the skis matched in length are too soft, choose a longer model. Regarding rigidity, I would like to say that during the choice you need to be guided by the level of training. If it is high, you can safely buy hard skis.
In addition to the length, you need to pay attention to the width. If you intend to ski on a flat track, buy wide skis that are highly stable. If you have to ski on ice or on a hard track, narrow skis will be the best solution. They are more maneuverable and lighter than wide counterparts.
What is the design of the core
From the type of technology that is used to manufacture the core in specific model depends on the weight and, accordingly, the stiffness of the skis. The core can consist of layers of wood, laid with glass / carbon fiber and wrapped entirely in it, limited at the edges by plastic (usually) side walls. For example, some Fischer ski models use Air Channel technology to develop the core - this is a wooden base with several air channels, which undoubtedly affects the weight of the skis.
There are also cores made of foam materials: acrylic and propylene - a lightweight type for advanced amateurs and training athletes. There is also a honeycomb core structure 2, the lightest core type to date, used in sports models.
What is the difference between wooden and plastic skis
Plastic models are more durable than wooden ones, and can be used even in warm weather. As for wooden cross-country skis, it is impossible to use them when the thermometer is positive. Wooden skis were traditionally lubricated with holding ointment along the entire length and warm under the last, and this was enough to prevent recoil when riding. The wood structure also contributed to this.
As for plastic models, everything is not so simple here. After buying them and starting to maintain the same way as wooden cross-country skis, many people are disappointed in the purchase. The fact is that plastic has better sliding properties, especially compared to wood. Thus, before riding such skis, they need to be well lubricated with suitable products in certain places, and not everywhere.
How to choose skis for a child
Some parents think that skiing is a waste of time. Such an opinion is superficial and erroneous. Skiing strengthens the cardiovascular system, develops the vestibular apparatus, hardens the child's body. Initially, it is necessary to take into account the height, weight and age of the child. First, it is enough to purchase an ordinary children's model made of natural wood. When choosing, make sure that the model you like has notches - they prevent rollback. If you decide to buy sticks separately, make sure that the tip is of high quality, the reliability of the support depends on it. Ski bindings are hard, soft and semi-rigid. For children up to six years old, models with a soft or semi-rigid version are suitable, allowing you to wear casual boots or boots. After 6 years, an adult version in the form of a rigid mount is suitable. Buying skis "for growth" is not recommended.
How to choose ski poles
With everything is much simpler - they are also divided into top, medium and low models and have different quality gradations. The more expensive and professional the stick, the lighter and stronger it is. But, despite the strength and lack of vibration during repulsion, it is easy to break it with a blow from a sharp object. This often happens in racing, when a side and often accidental ski strike actually cuts off a piece of the stick. However, cheap amateur sticks can be broken by any professional, just by pushing hard at the start. The size of skating poles is selected as follows: your height is minus 20 centimeters for skating skis and your height is minus 30 centimeters for classic skis. At the same time, the size of the sticks may vary slightly depending on your readiness.
